I have met quite a few people in my pursuit of wine, and few of them share my unabashed love and passion for Monte Bello.

But the Bigdog is one who does.

We have tasted together, traveled together and partied together – some of which has been documented on these pages. What is less well known is that during the Jimsomare offline we held a while back at the late, lamented Redbird Brewing Co., Jon Cook met Kira (the Goddess) Maximovich – now the assistant winemaker at Thunder Mountain.

They were married this month in Big Sur.

As you can imagine, even if the dinner was to be simple, I wanted the night to be special. So I chose three of the “lesser” vintages of Monte Bello, to see if they were as lesser as some folks think – the 83 (ultimately declassified) and the 88 & 89, both thought to be weaker vintages.

We sipped on a variety of chilled whites while I puttered a bit on Kira’s injured computer – which I (somewhat surprisingly) was able restore to working order.

While I office-puttered, Jon kitchen-puttered – seasoning T-bones of exceptional quality, and lighting a charcoal fire. Kira put together a lovely salad of organic lettuce with slivers of toasted shiitake mushroom and a savory Reggiano Parmesan anointed with a zesty raspberry vinaigrette. I sautéed a ragout of green chard, spring onions and baby turnips – and that was our simple supper.

We pulled corks, and were delighted to find the wines in good condition.

1983 California Cabernet  Santa Cruz Mountains – 96% cabernet sauvignon, 4% merlot – 11.8% alcohol. This is the declassified Monte Bello, and my last 750. Actually, the wine was released to purchasers of futures with the Monte Bello label, but those folks were later contacted, and asked to return the wine so it could be relabeled. As compensation, for every bottle of Monte Bello returned, two bottles of Santa Cruz Mountains would take its place. I took the deal, although some folks did not, and have in their cellars “the Monte Bello that doesn’t exist.”

Dusty garnet in the glass, with a touch of orange/brown at the rim. Jon sniffed it and exclaimed: “Cedar!”, and indeed, the aromatics are dominated by cigar box and dark spices. Very smooth entry with sweet and ripe spicy berry flavors and a clean finish. We agreed that perhaps it lacks a little in the mid-palate, but this bottle was thoroughly enjoyable and showed best of the last six or so I have opened.

Kira smiled and Doggie gave it 2 woofs.

1988 Monte Bello  Santa Cruz Mountains – 95% cabernet sauvignon, 3% merlot, 2% petit verdot – 12.9% alcohol. 54 tons from 40 acres – 20% bottled as Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet. Dark ruby color – dark plum aromatics with hints of spice – more dense in the mouth than the 83 with a slightly rustic texture – familiar Monte Bello fruit flavors including the spice and mineral notes that characterize this vineyard. While not as elegant or graceful as the 84 or 85, the wine is nonetheless most pleasurable, and is drinking very well. It should hold for several years.

Kira grinned and Doggie gave it 2 1/2 woofs and a leg raise.

1989 Monte Bello  Santa Cruz Mountains – 86% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, 2% petit verdot – 13.4% alcohol. 71 tons from 46 acres – 40% held out.

Dark garnet color with no signs of age – black cherry predominates the aromatics with plum, minerals and spice – in the mouth the wine is absolutely seamless – it glides across the palate effortlessly, revealing focused red and purple fruit flavors and the requisite minerals and spice. Fully integrated and clearly at peak, and as Doggie said: “this is a complete wine.” While not as profound as the 84, I found it similar in style.

Kira beamed and Doggie gave it 3 woofs and a reach-around. I couldn’t agree more.

Is there such a thing as a “lesser vintage”? Of course.

Is there such a thing as a “lesser Monte Bello”? Only in comparative tastings, I believe. Certainly one could argue that the 82 and 83 wines were below what one can reasonably expect, but that is precisely why they were declassified. Any of these wines could be proudly served and thoroughly enjoyed.

For me, this wine remains enigmatic. For the average wine consumer, extrapolating the potential of Monte Bello from barrel samples is a fool’s errand. I don’t believe that even the most devoted wine enthusiast can successfully accomplish that task.

But I have faith. Faith in this special piece of earth, faith in Paul Draper, and faith in the synergism that is part of the romance and magic of Monte Bello.

I do believe I smiled all the way home.

califusa

Left Coast Correspondent for the Gang of Pour

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© Allan Bree March 2003