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A few years back, a gentleman by the name of
Jon Bullock (below in
yellow shirt) stopped by to
check out the wine department I was managing at that time, and during
our conversation, he informed me that he was starting up an import
business called U.S. Wine Imports in Ann Arbor. Some months later, I
got an invitation from him to taste some of the wines he was bringing
into the country, but couldn't attend because of prior commitments.
 Fast forward to earlier this year: I was reconnecting with my friend and
colleague Chaad Thomas
(right in white shirt) on Facebook and he told me he was now a partner
with Bullock. This could only be a plus for U.S. Wine Imports, because
Chaad is one of the most knowledgeable wine guys that I know. A few weeks
ago, Chaad invited several people in the area wine biz and press to
visit their warehouse and taste a representative selection of their
wines. Tasters included
Joel and Sally Goldberg,
Brad Baker,
Mark Smith
and my wife Kim and I, among others. The wines were generally of very
high quality and I was especially pleased to find that the company was
now bringing in the Gérard Bertrand line, which I had last reported on
in 2005. In preparing this report, I asked Thomas to give me the Cliff
Notes version of the company's history, and here's what he had to say.
“U.S. Wine Imports was founded by Jon Bullock in 2006, as a way to fuse
his wine hobby to his entrepreneurial spirit. He and I were introduced
by a mutual friend who remembered me from my days as a buyer at Cost
Plus World Market in Ann Arbor, and knew that I was still in the
business, as Wine Director at Paesano's restaurant. Functioning as a
consultant, Jon and I discussed market strategies and did wine tastings
as he narrowed in on the initial import selection.
It was in '08 that I came on board full-time and as a partner. Together with
Jon's wife, Amy, who has an MBA and who keeps us on track and on the right side
of the balance sheets, the three of us handle the business, which stretches
across Michigan. We also sell our wines to wholesalers in other states for
distribution, since for many of the wines, we are the sole USA importer. We are
on the cusp of hiring our first employees for sales and delivery, so despite the
foundering economy, we've found a nice niche as a smaller, service-oriented
supplier with a high-value, specialty wine portfolio.
Our specialization is Italian wines, owing to the fact that they make
the best wines in the world! I'm kidding about that, although the
breadth of styles and varieties found in Italy is unrivaled, and offers
new discoveries at every turn. In fact, our portfolio includes wines
from Spain, Portugal, France, Uruguay and California, with distinctive
offerings from each. Since we don't do the common wines from big brands,
our clientele is almost exclusively the smaller, independent wine shops,
restaurants, and specialty grocers, places that put a premium on value,
quality, and the wine experience for its own sake.”
The wines were tasted with baguettes and a variety of Italian style hors
d' oeuvres.
2007 Perusini Ronchi di Gramogliano Sauvignon Colli Orientali del
Friuli, 13%, $17.99: Medium straw color; varietally correct, with
slightly grassy flavors and aromas of grapefruit, mineral and a bit of
cat pee.
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Ca di Pietra Prosecco Brut NV, 11% alc., $14.99: Immense fizz initially,
then goes a little flat, pale color, with good intensity and acids.
Green apple and citrus character, medium bodied and then some, this is
saved by the zippy acids that stand in for the failing effervescence.
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Mas Tinell Extra Brut Cava Grand Reserva NV, 12% alc., $14.39: Medium
color, with good froth and intensity in the mouth; medium bodied, with
green apple, grapefruit and mineral flavors and aromas spurred along by
excellent acidity. The best of the bubblies tasted on this occasion and
one I could drink on a daily basis.
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Brutell Franciacorta Brut, 100% Chardonnay, 13% alc., $26.29: Medium
color, with ample mousse; medium bodied, with steely apple, pear and
mineral character. Definitely shows its Chardonnay personality. 24
months on the yeast; bottle #200 out of 2016.
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2004 Gérard Bertrand Cremant de Limoux Brut, 70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin
Blanc, 10% Mauzac. 12.5% alc., $16.50: Medium straw color, with good
apple and mineral flavors and aromas that show a honeyed edge; good
acids and mousse, but not overly long on the finish. Pleasant and
enjoyable.
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2005 Gérard Bertrand Cremant de Limoux Brut Rose, 70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir, $16.50: Peach gold color, with a dusty
under-ripe strawberry and watermelon personality; almost musky. Shows a
smooth texture, good acids and intensity and delivers more “oomph” than
the regular Brut.
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2006 Gérard Bertrand Chateau l’Hospitalet Coteaux du Languedoc
La Clape
Blanc La Reserve, 13% alc., $19.50: Made from Grenache Blanc, Bourbelenc
and Vermentino, with 8 months spent in French oak. Pale to medium gold,
with subdued cloves, allspice and Christmas spices over dry apple and
pear, all with good weight and cut. Some found this to be too oak
influenced, but I didn't have a problem with it, as I didn't think it
was at all excessive, but rather took a moderate stance in the greater
whole of the wine's personality.
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2005 Sangenis I Vaque Priorat, 45% Grenache, 45% Carignane, 10% Syrah,
14.5% alc., $16.49: Good dark color, and doesn't show its alcohol;
earthy animal over red and black fruit that shows good, aggressive
intensity. Well structured and a good value.
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2004 Sola Classic Priorat Josep Barceló-Vinyes Masia Hereu Estate, 55%
Carignan, 45% Grenache, 14% alc., $13.50: Deep, dark color, with earthy,
tarry, gamy sun baked black fruit that is dosed with an element
reminiscent of the smell you get from a bottle of vitamins. Full bodied
and well structured, but not a favorite of the tasters, and not slated
to be reordered.
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2003 Capoverso Merlot Cartiglio, 13.5% alc., $30.50: Good dark color,
with subtle notes of sweaty saddle leather, horse stable, mahogany and
eucalyptus shading black currant and blackberry; elegant, well
structured and ripe, but not too ripe. One taster added an impression
of “cherry stick,” while another called it “in the sweet spot.” Well
received by all. From the Avignonesi family.
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2003 Olim Bauda Barbera d'Asti Superiore, 14% alc., $33.19: Deep dark
color, with a little acetone over rich dried cherry and licorice shaded
with subtle earthy undertones. Ripe due to the vintage, full bodied and
well structured. Sun baked in character. From 50 year old vines.
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2005 Gérard Bertrand Pic St. Loup Grand Terroir, 50% Mourvedre, 25%
Grenache, 25% Carignane, 13.5% alc., $18.79: Good dark color, with
earthy black plum and black currant; deep, dark and delicious, with
subtle shades of leather and herbaceousness. Full bodied, with
excellent structure; very balanced and harmonious.
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2006 Gérard Bertrand Chateau l’Hospitalet Coteaux du Languedoc
La Clape
La Reserve, 13.5% alc., $19.50: Clean dark color, with an earthy tobacco
and black fruit nose that follows through beautifully on the palate;
polished and harmonious, with lovely balance and yet deceptively well
structured for some years in the cellar.
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2006 Bouza Monte Vide Eu (Uraguay), 14% alc., $64.59: American oak
dominates the personality of this Tannat, Merlot and Tempranillo blend,
lending strong notes of coconut and dill to the otherwise nice black
fruit underneath; full bodied, well structured and very smooth in
texture, this is a good choice for those with the “California palate,”
but will the oak ever integrate? I'm not so sure, but only time will
tell.
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I'm quite impressed with the wines we tasted from the U.S. Wine Imports'
portfolio, and I'm excited about their future. It will be interesting
to watch them grow and taste their wines as their book expands. Kudos
to Jon and Amy Bullock and Chaad Thomas for a job well done.
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t
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