This strikes me as being just short of restrained, and in fact, it presents a microcosm of the Stag’s Leap style of winemaking. Tim Clark, Stag’s Leap’s Midwest Regional Sales Manager tells me that winemaker Nicki Pruss would prefer a Sauvignon Blanc that more resembles the bold style of New Zealand, while Winiarski himself wants something very much along the lines of white Bordeaux, and so this was their compromise, and it’s one that I quite like. Made from fruit sourced primarily from Stag’s Leap’s B.R.V. Estate Vineyard (60-70%), and supplemented by grapes from the Rancho Chimiles Vineyard of Terrence Wilson, and other select Napa Valley growers. 81% barrel fermentation (3-4 year-old French oak, 6 months sur lies), 19% tank.

2005 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Napa Chardonnay Karia, $32, 13.5% alc.: Medium straw color, with subtle oak and clean, restrained Chardonnay fruit reminiscent of cream, apple, pear and citrus, all shaded with a subtle underlying minerality; this is all about balance, elegant and full of finesse. Indeed, Winiarski’s focus has always been on restraint, and this shows that very nicely, with its smooth texture that almost belies the deceptive acidity. Karia is derived from a Greek word meaning “graceful,” and this embodies that characteristic well. Sourced from the Arcadia and B.R.V. Estate Vineyards, and supplemented with fruit from selected Carneros vineyards; 91% Barrel and 9% Stainless Steel Tank fermentation, with only 28% malolactic. Find this wine

2003 Hawk Crest California Merlot, 99.7% Merlot, .03% Cabernet Sauvignon, $14, 13.8% alc.: This ruby dark garnet was included in the tasting to illustrate how the quality of the Hawk Crest line, Stag’s Leap’s 2nd label, has been stabilized and improved, given inconsistent performance in the past, and it certainly held its own in that regard. It offers slightly dusty, well-mannered currant and berry flavors and aromas, shaded with a little earth, some dark chocolate and a hint of spice. Well balanced, with moderate tannins and good acidity, this is a well-priced, harmonious everyday house red, and it’s not everyday that I’ll say that about a California Merlot. Sourced from vineyards in Paso Robles (67.4%) and the Red Hills district of Lake County (13.3%); 9 months in French oak. Find this wine

2004 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis, 98.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1.6% Merlot, $50, 13.8% alc.: Dark garnet color, with black currant and tobacco aromatics that follow through nicely on the palate, accented with a subtle note of dark chocolate and a judicious kiss of oak; moderate tannins, with good acids and length, this shows pure Cabernet character and pairs well with a slice of prime rib. Artemis not only obviously refers to the Greek Goddess of the wilderness and the protector/hunter of the stag, but is also intended to differentiate from the rival Stag’s Leap Winery. Sourced from Fay, SLV and Arcadia Estate Vineyards, and supplemented with fruit from selected independent Napa Valley growers; 18 months in French Oak (52% new), 100% malolactic. Find this wine

2003 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Napa Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon Fay, $80, 13.7% alc.: This dark garnet exudes a lovely perfume of rich black currant-cassis shaded with notes of chocolate, tobacco and perfectly integrated oak, all of which follows through beautifully on the palate. Like everything else tasted on this occasion, this exhibits the impeccable balance and finesse that is the hallmark of this producer; it has a lovely personality, with a smooth mouth feel and deceptive structure that will carry it well for several years of development in the cellar, and yet it already drinks so well that one might have a hard time keeping hands off, especially to pair with any fine cut of beef or lamb. Classic Napa Cabernet; an iron fist in a velvet glove indeed! Sourced from the legendary Fay Vineyard, seeing 27 months of French oak and 100% malolactic fermentation. Find this wine

The last wine tasted was bought from the wine list of the restaurant where the tasting was held, because the distributor is sold out and it was felt that it would provide an interesting comparison to the Fay bottling, which it certainly did.

2003 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Napa Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V., 98.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1.2% Merlot, $110, 14.1% alc.: Dark garnet color, and although a little less effusive on the nose than the Fay, it still displays a lovely perfume that features a little dust, a little earth and black currant-cassis shaded with a hint of chocolate, and these impressions follow through on the palate beautifully; impeccably balanced, this is clearly a deeper, darker wine than the Fay, less immediately gorgeous and needing more time in the cellar, five years minimum. Another classic. 40% of Stag’s Leap’s S.L.V. Vineyard was too young for production in 2003, due to a continuous replanting program that had taken place over the previous decade, so this wine was sourced primarily from Blocks 1A and 2A, planted in the early ‘90s, along with Block 4, the last remaining block from the original 1970 planting. 100% stainless steel fermentation, followed by 27 months in French Oak; 100%malolactic. Find this wine

2005 Merryvale Starmont Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, $18, 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon, 93% fermented in French oak barrels, 7% tank-fermented, 13.5% alc.:

2001 Merryvale Reserve Merlot, Napa Valley, 82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, $35, 14.5% alc.:

2002 Merryvale-Beckstoffer Cabernet Sauvignon - Beckstoffer Vineyard X, Oakville, Napa Valley, $75, 14.5% alc.:

Reporting from Day-twah,