SEMINAR HYPERLINKS

"Grenache: Down Under & Up & Over, by Bruce Leiserowitz
"Gigondas Masterclass with Louis Barruol and Pascal Roux, by Bruce Leiserowitz
"The Bio-Dynamic Duo with Michel Chapoutier and Ron Laughton", by Bruce Leiserowitz
"Cote-Rotie Condrieu Masterclass",by Bruce Leiserowitz
Is Wine Really "Art"? - Editorial, by Bruce Leiserowitz
Nine Popes Retrospective with Charlie Melton, by Allan Bree

By Bruce Leiserowitz

 "The Bio-Dynamic Duo with Michel Chapoutier &
Ron Laughton" 
Saturday, June 17, 2000 at 9 a.m.

In this seminar, there were only three wines poured, and the focus was on the panel discussion, which was introduced and moderated by Manfred Krankl of Sine Qua Non.  Part of the seminar focused on the joint venture between Michel Chapoutier and Ron Laughton (of Jasper Hill in Heathcote, Australia).  The name for the wines to be produced has not yet been disclosed, and the first vintage is about 3 years away.  They are importing into Australia some specific Hermitage Syrah clones.  The vineyard site is approximately 1000 feet in elevation, with N/NE facing slopes.  When I asked them about the oak treatment that would be used, they said that that decision will be made when they taste the grapes that are produced. 

The next part of the panel discussion dealt with the topic of biodynamics and the non-interventionist philosophy.  Because some of the comments dealt with the topic of the relationship between art and wine, I have taken that topic out and have dealt with it separately in my own editorial section at the very end. 

Anyway, Michel Chapoutier discussed why he thought the vine growing was so important; namely to extract the soil characteristics.  He took great pains to distinguish biodynamic farming from "organic" farming, in part because "organic" labelled wines have a reputation for poor quality.  He is not looking to make an "ecological" wine, but the best wine he can using natural/biodynamic principles.  He commented that making wine wasn't a completely natural process, since the result of a natural process would result in turning the wine into vinegar.  Moreover, he discussed the need to use sulfites to avoid toxins in the wine. 

He also commented on the need to have bacterial life in the soil, in order to extract minerals.  From his perspective, there is no "gout de terroir" in the unfermented grapes themselves.  In other words, you could eat raw grapes of the same varietal grown in differing soils and they would taste the same; the differences emerge with fermentation. 

Both Michel and Ron emphasized a non-interventionist approach to avoid interfering with the "terroir" of the vineyard.  Ron used the example of irrigation as being a type of intervention.  His goal is not to grow a high volume of grapes, but to grow lots of flavor.  The flavor is achieved with small berries that have a high skin to pulp ratio.  Thus, he would consider irrigation as interfering with flavor and thus "terroir." 

1.  1996 Chapoutier Ermitage L'Ermite.  This wine is 100% Syrah, using only free run juice, and no fining/filtering.  Michel says this wine needs 5-10 years of cellaring.  A medium aromatic nose that is very deep--ripe blackberry and plum, roasted coffee, and a slight gaminess.  With aeration, herbs de provence are added.  Although the flavors are very deep, this is not a forward wine.   Instead, it is quite backward, with a slight tart and extremely tannic finish.  A real "wow" wine based on potential; a Bruce L. 93 - 4+. 

2.  1997 Jasper Hill Georgia's Paddock Shiraz Heathcote.  One of the most aromatic wines of the seminars, this is a big, minty, ripe blackberry, oaky-vanilla, slightly syrupy, and slightly eucalyptus wine throughout.  It's not quite as syrupy in the taste as in the nose, but there is a very long, minty finish.  More hedonistic than the brooding L'Ermite, but a "wow" on that hedonistic level; a Bruce L. 93 - 4+. I think it needs 2-3 years in the cellar. 

3.  1998 Jasper Hill Georgia's Paddock Shiraz Heathcote.  When first poured in the morning seminar, this was similar to the 97, but a bit more closed, and more dominated by earth and coffee tones.  A bit more cherry flavor than the 97; a Bruce L. 92+.  I think it needs 3-5 years in the cellar.  Ron Laughton said that he picks based on the fruit flavors, so this had high sugar levels and thus higher alcohol levels than he usually gets.  It's 15.5%.  I had a chance to retaste this wine later in the day after it had been opened for several hours.  By that point, it was much more open and voluptuous, with definite ripe plum and chocolate notes added.  Not yet as hedonistic as the 97 is showing, but still "wow" potential as a Bruce L. 93+.  

On to  "Cote-Rotie Condrieu Masterclass"