The Director, Bored Doughnut, Canadian Zinfan and this taster convened recently for a not so random sampling of Sauvignon from around the world. (Sadly, Zinchick and Mrs. BD were unable to join in.) We revisited a few late models of those tried a year previous, along with some new selections, and all four were exceptional.

Whilst stoking up the smoker (the maiden voyage of a Christmas gift from the Zinfolk) to do a couple of whole chickens, we began with our first selection.

1997 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly Fume En Chailloux $25; 13 % alc.: Mark brought this, and it was a treat. We’ve tasted three other vintages of this, and there has always been a good dose of "detergent" character that I’ve found detracting. This medium straw has none of that. While the nose isn’t that effusive, it does show nice dry green apple/wet stone aromas that gain a "nice little touch of gooseberry" in the flavors, as CZ pointed out. It’s crisply acidic, yet it has a smooth, creamy quality about it as well. An excellent Sauvignon that stimulated the baguette, cheese and conversation.

1997 Serge Dagueneau Pouilly Fume "Les Pentes" $18; 12.5 % alc.: This is the 3^rd straight solid vintage of this fine wine that has been enjoyed at Gang Central, and I found it even better than the En Chailloux. A medium straw and more effusive in aroma, it was rather different than the first. CZ described a note of "honeysuckle" on the nose, while BD chimed in with "mushroom;" I found flavors and aromas of green apple/pear/wet stone and hints of fig and herb. It shows the requisite acidity, and yet it’s smooth as velvet, even creamier than the En Chailloux. It also has a slightly honeyed quality about it, but it’s certainly not sweet. A personal favorite, and certainly much better the 79 that The Expecterator rated it.

1998 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough (New Zealand) $19; 13.5 %alc.: As much as I loved the "Les Pentes," I liked this even better. Again, like the first wine, there’s not much on the nose initially, but it opens some with air. However, the flavors of this medium straw explode on the palate, with rich, round, bold apple/pear/fig and just a hint of gooseberry. When CZ arsked, "Does "brassy" make any sense," we replied enthusiastically, "YES!!!" "Steely" would work too. It shows all of the expected zesty acidity, and a long finish. It was my clear favorite of the four wines tasted.

1997 Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley (a gift from califusa); 13.5 % alc.: I wanted to compare this terrific Cal Sauvignon with the others for obvious reasons; it is yet another distinct expression of the varietal, and a different one at that. I spoke with califusa regarding this only a few hours before the tasting, and he told me that while the fruit was just starting to fade ever so slightly, it was still drinking very nicely. I found the pale straw to be much as I remembered it, with big spicy fruit that features rich pear/grapefruit/fig/cinnamon and nutmeg flavors and aromas that were the most complex of the four wines tasted; it was also the richest, most unctuous of the bunch, seeming almost fat by comparison. This is probably why it wasn’t my favorite; it seemed just a little overdone to me. Nevertheless, there’s no doubt that it is one heck of a fine wine that satisfies immensely.

We were fairly evenly divided in our favorites. Mark preferred the En Chailloux, saying it really got his saliva going. Kim liked the Rochioli best, while Alan couldn’t make up his mind between that and the Cloudy Bay. As stated, the Cloudy Bay was my favorite, but the "Les Pentes" was a close second. Happily, this was another one of those occasions where there wasn’t a lot to choose between any of these world class Sauvignons, which can only be a win-win situation!

Just a few weeks later, some of us assembled at Gang Central once again. I’d been looking for an opportunity to check on the progress of one of the 1990 Silex in the cellar, and since the weather was gorgeous and the ‘deauxnut had a ’97 model of the same to contribute, we were set.

1990 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly Fume Silex $50; 14 % alc.: Kim and I bought three of these at a closeout sale in the summer of ’96, for 20 % and 30 % off the list price noted here. We tried one then, and absolutely loved it. Knowing that these are built for the long haul, we’ve sat on the other two, but I wonder if we didn’t wait a little too long. A pale gold, it showed just a hint of an oxidized characteristic that wasn’t off putting by any means; I just prefer not to let my whites go quite this far along on their aging curve. I got a big overripe pear quality on the nose, which Mr. Flippy seconded, saying "eau de vie." The flavors exhibited creamy pear, along with fig and a certain honeyed element that lent a little sweetness; it finishes with a note of citrus. Probably time to drink these up, if this bottle was an accurate indication, as the wine is now very low in acidity. We’ll be trying our last one soon to see how it compares, and will report on our findings.

1997 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly Fume Silex $50; 13.5 % alc.: This medium straw is lighter in color and body than the ’90, and shows flavors and aromas of grapefruit/cat spray/mineral and a hint of detergent and creamy oak on the finish. The feline note surprised me a bit, because it was my understanding that Didier Dagueneau strives to eliminate this from his Sauvignons. Not that this bothered any of us, as it is textbook Sauvignon, with excellent concentration and intensity. It received wows all around, but I wouldn’t open another for anywhere between two to five years, when it should develop a more creamy texture and some nice subtleties in its complexity. Terrific stuff!

More Sauvignon

1997 Serge Dagueneau Pouilly Fume "Les Pentes"

1998 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough

1997 Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley

1990 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly Fume Silex

1997 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly Fume Silex

Underground Index

Wine Probation © Defined 

The Drawing of the Threes

  A Chat with J.C. Mathes of J et R Selections

More Red Wings 
& Red Rhones '02-'03

Red Wings & Red Rhones '02-'03

  More Lucky Languedocs

  10 New Italian Reds

  Playoff Diary '02
Welcome Home Stanley!!!

  Playoff Diary '02
Round 3

  Playoff Diary '02
Round 2

Seven Lucky Languedocs

Playoff Diary '02
Round 1

Red Wings & Red Rhones 01-02

  A Dandy Rhône and a Night at the Joe