1992  M. Chapoutier Ermitage "La Pavillon," 13.5% alc.: This is a beast, especially when compared to the ’92 Chave Hermitage enjoyed on the same occasion.  Still looking like a glass of ink, with little if any rust, it’s much harder, less generous and immediately appealing than the Chave; in fact, it tastes relatively young in comparison, delivering flavors and aromas reminiscent of deep, dark earthy black fruit shaded with some underbrush, a little black olive and just the barest hint of bacon.  Still significant structure to this one, and really not much in the way of complexity, so it would be interesting to try it again in five years or so, but right now, the Chave is clearly the better wine.  Frankly, "La Pavillon" seems to be in a dumb phase, compared to how well it drank in '04.   Find this wine

Imported by Paterno Imports, Ltd., Chicago, IL

One of our go-to selections for Red Wings/Red Rhônes ’07-‘08 has been the 2004 Mas Saint-Joseph Costières-de-Nîmes Cuvée L'Aventure, which we recently reviewed most favorably.  Two others that have really impressed us are the following wines. 

2003 Domaine de L’Oratoire St. Martin Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages Haut-Coustias, 60% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 13.5% alc., $27.99: Deep, dark color, with a slightly smoky tinge; all smoke, leather and roasted stone on the nose, with some earthy forest floor underneath it all.  Plenty more of the same on the palate, anchored with a rich core of ripe red and black plum, currant and berry, and despite the solid structure, this is drinking very well right now, with an arresting personality and satisfying length on the finish.  While this may show a ripeness attributable to the mutant vintage, it balances that with a ton of earthy, funky Rhône character.  In short, I like this wine just fine, and it goes quite well with grilled buttermilk blue cheese infused burgers.  Find this wine

Imported by J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI

1999 Château de Montmirail Vacqueyras Cuvée de l’Ermite, $14.99, 13.5% alc.: The last time we had this wine was back during the Red Wings’ Stanley Cup drive of ’02, and it’s developed nicely since then.  Still showing deep, dark color, with nary a hint of rust, it’s drinking very well indeed, with tannins mostly resolved, letting the friendly, somewhat leathery red plum, currant and berry flavors and aromas shine through with a subtle earthy base.  Mature, but as of yet, showing no secondary characteristics; there’s a solid core of rich fruit here, tannins are soft, acids are balanced and the flavors linger nicely on the finish.  A very harmonious wine, and a great buy at $15 back in 2002, it actually reminds me of a Thackrey Pleiades with some years under its belt, and that’s not a bad thing at all.  Find this wine

Imported by J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI
 

A Celebration of 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape

We were most pleased to join a good group of friends on November 11^th at Shiraz Restaurant, in Bingham Farms, Michigan for a wine dinner featuring a broad selection of 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape.  In attendance were Brad Cook and Leeann Starr, Paul and Amy Ragheb, Jim and Faye Friedman, Brad and Michelle Baker, Jim and Cheryl Brennan, Dan Myers, Kim Adams and this taster.  As was the case last January, Master Sommelier Madeline Triffon was also on hand to oversee the service and to sample and comment on the wines with us as well. 

There were a total of 19 wines tasted, so my notes are brief, being necessarily of the snapshot variety.  They are included here because despite the fact that we weren’t watching a Red Wings’ game while eating and tasting, they fit the theme in every other way.  I like to think that we tanked up on some reserve mojo to keep the boys with the winged wheel on their jerseys true to their winning ways over the next several weeks.  Before we got to those, however, we started out with some bubbly and two white Rhônes.

Hors D’Oeuvres
Foie Gras Tourchon on Griddled Brioche with Onion & Cherry Jelly
Roasted Tomato & Olive Tapenade on Flatbread
Bacon Wrapped Cajun Shrimp

1996 Bollinger “Grand Année” Champagne
There were actually two bottles of the Bollinger, the first one that Jim Friedman described as “grey market,” and the second, a US import.  The “grey market” was slightly less chilled that the other, and perhaps that’s why it came off as being bigger, bolder and more pungent, with lots of yeasty, nutty bread dough and lemon curd shaded with a bit of sherried character; it also seemed a little sweeter than the second bottle, according to Mr. Friedman, who also commented that the second bottle was essentially the same, once it lost some of its chill.  I didn’t take a second pour from the second bottle, but I'm sure his assessment is sound. as he knows his Bollinger.  As it stands, both were delicious, but I preferred the less-chilled-when-I-tried-it first bottle slightly.  Frankly, I could have cozied up with either for a few hours and gotten quite intimate, but there were other things being poured. Find this wine

2005 J. L. Chave Crozes Hermitage Blanc
Medium straw in color, with a chalky, stony character that dominates the white fruit flavors, and it’s all the better for that, IMNSHO.  Full bodied, with enough acidity to work well with the appetizers, this is a wine that really shows a “sense of place.”  California Chardonnay fans would probably hate it, but everyone at this dinner likes it just fine.  I do believe that this Marsanne-Roussanne blend is the first white Crozes Hermitage I’ve had the pleasure to get to know, even if ever so briefly, and it more than held it own against the considerably more expensive selection that followed. Find this wine

2005 E. Guigal Condrieu La Dorian
Quite the contrast to the Chave, this pale straw colored Viognier is all about flowers and stones on the nose, with earthy white fruit, honeysuckle and bees wax flavors.  Big, rich and powerful, with excellent acids and a long, lovely finish, there’s an obvious kiss of oak here, but it’s well integrated and unobtrusive.  This was an excellent opportunity to try this highly regarded, critically acclaimed wine, because it’s doubtful that I’ll be spending $90 or so on one any time soon.  Find this wine

Seared Duck Breast
Butternut Squash Risotto and Mushroom Jus
 

2005 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Good dark color to this one, with a floral, spicy black plum and berry nose that follows through on the palate with sleek, rich character and notes of earth, iron and black olive as it opens.  Very well proportioned and structured, and while it’s one of the most approachable of any of the reds poured on this occasion, it’s full of promise for a good long life.  One of my co-favorites for best of flight, and indeed, probably the wine that sticks out in my mind the most from this evening.  Find this wine

2005 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This was a replacement in the flight for a corked Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  It seems to give more red fruit Grenache character than the Donjon, and less earth and iron on the nose.  Deeper, darker flavors show red and black plum and berry, and while it’s big and rich, it’s also rougher and less refined than the first selection. Find this wine

2005 Domaine des Sénechaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This wine offers pretty floral red fruit flavors and aromas that seem to indicate a good dose of Grenache, all with a dusting of Provencal herbs and earthy undertones.  The tannins are ample and the acids are racy. Find this wine

2005 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Another one that gives lovely floral red and black plum and berry aromatics, turning earthy and spicy in the mouth, but the significant tannins and acids need years to tone down.  All about promise right now.  Find this wine

2005 Domaine Olivier Hillaire “Les Petits Pieds d’Armand” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Black olives are apparent first and foremost, with the requisite earthy, spicy black and red plum and berry laced with iron; significant structure to this and yet so full of flavor, it’s hard to resist.  The olive character really sets the tone here, and it’s one of my co-favorites of the flight. Find this wine

2005 Domaine Olivier Hillaire “Vieilles Vignes” Cotes du Rhone
Poured in the transition between the first and second courses, this had originally been slated for the Hors D’Oeuvres, but then the two white Rhônes appeared.  Obviously less expressive than the Châteauneuf-du-Papes, this nevertheless holds its own, with earthy, dusty red and black fruit that shows good structure.  A good wine for a weeknight Red Wings game. Find this wine

Grilled USDA Prime Strip Loin
Roasted Parsnips and Haricot Verts
 

2005 Domaine Pierre Usseglio “Cuvée de Mon Aieul” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Well-mannered earthy black and red plum and berry with subtle spice and floral perfume and significant structure.  As you’d expect, this needs time, but shows great promise.  Find this wine

2005 Domaine Bois de Boursan “Cuvée des Felix” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
A classic example of this house’s style, with its wonderfully distinct personality, delivering earthy, dusty black plum and berry laced with Provencal herbs and leather.  I’m surprised that this showed none of the oak character that other vintages that we’ve tried have, but I’m not complaining.  Very nice now, and better in 10 years.  Best of flight and right there with the Donjon and Armand’s Little Feet. Find this wine

2005 Domaine de Beauregard Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Straightforward Châteauneuf-du-Pape with no particularly distinctive characteristics that stand out in this crowd, but no real detractions either. Find this wine

2005 Domaine de Beaurenard “Boisrenard” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Rich and perfumed, showing an obvious allspice characteristic that sets the tone for the rich red and black berry personality.  Easily the most “international” in style of all of these, and not one of my favorites for that reason.  Find this wine
 

Braised Lamb Shank and Tenderloin
Cassoulet and Root Vegetables
 

2005 Télégramme Châteauneuf-du-Pape, of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Pure earthy red Grenache laden Châteauneuf-du-Pape; less complex than the rest, and although not bad by any means, it’s lost in the crowd. Find this wine

2005 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape “la Crau”
Pure, lovely Vieux Télégraphe, not exactly sweet, and not even showing all that much earth and leather; just rich, pure, lovely red plum and berry made in the house style.  One of the standouts of the evening.  Find this wine

2005 Chateau Fortia “Tradition” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Old wood (not corked), and earthy black fruit with big structure; good, but not up to the rest of the lineup. Find this wine

2005 Chateau Fortia “Cuvée du Baron” Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Expressive, lovely red and black plum and berry, with subtle earth and a certain perfumed character; excellent structure, and yet quite approachable.  Very nice.  Find this wine

Of course, as is always the case with festivities such as this, there was a delicious dessert served, and even I partook, which is rare.  One wine in particular stood out for me, more so than for some, apparently. 
 

Duet of Apple Tartlett and Chocolate Hazelnut
Caramel and Raspberry Sauces

2001 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein
Pale to medium straw color, with ripe apple, sweet lemon, honey and petrol flavors and aromas; the petrol is anything but subtle, but it IS really good, and I wouldn’t like this as well without it.  Delicate and rich at the same time, with good acidity; not quite thick, not quite unctuous, just brilliant.  A couple of tasters commented on a note of sulfur that they found off-putting, and as I noted nothing like that, I wonder if they weren’t referring to the “petrol,” which is certainly a characteristic of Riesling not to everyone’s liking.  I very much preferred this to the following selection.  Find this wine

1975 Chateau Rieussec Sauternes
Pale amber color, with middleweight caramel and honey flavors and decent acidity; reserved and not over the top.  Nice, but I’ll always take a great German dessert wine over Sauternes.  That’s just the kind of hairpin I am. Find this wine

It was a marvelous evening and a great opportunity to taste through a broad survey of 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, none of which sucked and five of which really stood out for this taster. The food and wine pairings were terrific, and many, many kudos go to Madeline Triffon, Corporate Chef Eric Ward and the staff of Shiraz for their excellent cuisine and superior service.  Finally, many thanks to all who attended for their enduring friendship and camaraderie, which ultimately makes it all worthwhile.

Reporting from Day-twah,