Storyline:
Alan Kerr

Tasting Notes:
George Heritier


Dinner at Chez Moi

Menu

Intro

Canader:
Dinner at Canadian Zinfan's

Recipes from Chef Kerr

Touring Niagara

Jackson-Triggs

Jackson-Triggs
Tasting Notes


Ann Arbor, Michigan
MoCool 2002

Sunday Blind Pinot Noir Challenge

Cincinnati, Ohio
HIP-Moe-tized

Day-Twah (Detroit), Michigan  
Old Hill Ranch Revisited

Flotsam and Jetsam 

 


Payback is a wonderful thing! When I heard the news that Allan Bree, our Left Coast Correspondent, was to venture east, I wondered what would entice him to cross the Iron Curtain and enter into the realm of the great white north.

Not even an unlimited supply of doughnuts, poutine, back bacon, or real beer would be enough to lure the man but if I threw in dinner and several wines to accompany the meal, this might just tip the scales in my favour.  To do this would be nothing less than a pleasure for me; after all, back in the spring of 2002 while Bree organized and executed the brilliant Ridgestock fiesta, he took time out to treat us, the Gang, to an evening of his fabulous food and an array of simply drop dead wines that he had carefully selected from his cellar.

Bree’s scheduled visit allowed me the chance to reciprocate. I have to be honest it was a trifle unnerving. The only wines from Niagara that I have opened for him have been Ice wines. Would he like Chardonnay with only a subtle degree of oak? How would he adjust to wines of elegance and charm instead of his usual daily dose of high-octane fruit bombs? Well, it would be a challenge, and the best way to start was to head to the cellar and see what I had stashed away for a rainy day.

Les Amuse

Tempura Dipped Zucchini Blossoms with Ripe Tomato Concasse and Truffle Oil

Kim and geo helped out immensely by bringing a few of the culinary treasures that are only available at certain times throughout the year. For example, once the Gang arrived, a bag brimming with just plucked zucchini blossoms was cast upon my kitchen counter accompanied with the instructions, "Do something with these". No problem, a thin tempura batter and some smoking olive oil quickly catered to Kim’s command. I sprinkled a concasse of tomatoes, the first from my vines, over the top, some shredded purple basil and finished it with a drizzle of pungent truffle oil from Piedmont. As an amuse should, it took the edge off our hunger while we sipped away on the Roederer. There was a little Foie Gras tucked away on the back shelf of my fridge that I knew with the oncoming road trip would not get eaten. Hey there is no time like the present!

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut, 12% alc.: Medium straw, with plenty of fine bead and rich flavors and aromas of toast, green apple, pear and even a hint of smoke. Bree added, "It’s a yeasty beastie," while Kerr called it "creamy and lime-y," and he’s certainly qualified to be a judge of the latter. The finish lingers nicely, and this pairs well with fois gras on toast. A very consistent performer delivers again, receiving 3 thumbs up; even Kim says it’s not bad, and she’s not a bubble head.

My main objective of the evening was to serve the first course early and the last course late. Although there was a plenteous amount of food to come, opening Kim and Geo’s generous offering of the Domaine des Baumard gave us time to relax a little and work up an appetite.

Baumard Trie Speciale1995 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale, 13.9% alc.: This pale to medium gold has been languishing in the cellar from hell, waiting for just this occasion to show what it has, and despite a stingy nose that shows just a bit of sea air, it didn’t disappoint. The Zinfan accurately described a hazelnut and toffee character, and the smooth mouthfeel creates the illusion of less acidity than is actually present. And while the fruit gives the impression of a little sweetness, it finishes on a decidedly dry note that lingers nicely. Mr. Kerr and I are particularly fond of this.

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich with Lobster, Lobster Emulsion, Green Tomatilla Gazpacho, Fried Fingerling Zucchini and Truffle Scented Arugula

Crab sandwich and MontrachetFor the first course I wanted something that would compete with the strength and concentration that I hoped the Montrachet would display. Rarely drinking wines of this caliber, I didn’t really know what to expect. However, at the same time I imagined it would be a powerful wine so I wanted to make certain I did it justice. The Gazpacho was based on roasted tomatillas pureed along with hazelnuts, almonds, cilantro, and a touch of sherry vinegar. The soft-shell crabs, which sat upon slices of brioche spread with tartar in the centre of the room temperature soup had been fried quickly in very hot clarified butter. I had poached the flesh from a few lobster in beurre blanc, and used the shells to produce a most potent lobster stock that was reduced to a glaze. The lobster sat on top of the crab and its essence was spooned around to intermingle with soup. Fingerling zucchini, more of Kim’s treats, were used to garnish along with some "Mesclun Nicoise" greens that came right from my garden. I was happy with the result and although both the wine and the dish were powerfully flavoured, each did compliment the other.

1986 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche: Medium gold in color, this features rich, almost honeyed pear on the nose, with some sea air in the background. These follow through on the palate, with added notes of apricot and well-integrated oak; it has a satin smooth texture, just enough acidity and a nice long finish. It takes on an almost candied aspect with air, and is delish with the crab sandwich. "I think this is about ready to drink," C.Z. commented in his most understated manner. If it’s not at its peak, it’s very close.

Click here to continue with dinner.

Click here for recipes from Chef Kerr.

BACK TO THE TOP

 

  Link to Gang of Pour Home Page 

   Link to Gang of Pour Site Index (Table of Contents) 

© George Heritier  October 2002