Red Wings and 
Red Rhônes 2001

12/31/00: The Detroit Red Wings closed out the old millenium on a high note with a stirring 2-1 victory over the Los Angeles Kings. Steve Yzerman scored both goals for the good guys, including the game winner with only 4 seconds left in regulation time. Chris Osgood had his 2nd impressive showing in a row, after early season difficulties.

1988 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape, $19.99, 11-14% alc.
1989 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape, $18.99, 11-14% alc.
Shar Douglas and Ken Heibenstreit AKA Chanteuse and the Bookseller opened these during New Years festivities, and they were most interesting to taste. The older of the two is a rusty garnet with a very earthy character, exhibiting forest floor/underbrush/prune/ leather/olive/cedar flavors and aromas with little hints of tar. It has good acidity and a fairly long finish, with enough tannins to continue to improve for at least a few years. The fruit gets much richer as it opens with air, and is a pleasure to drink even now.

The ’89 is showing little rust to its dark garnet color, and considerably less forest floor/underbrush character as well. The plum/prune/olive/iodine nose isn’t as effusive as the ’88, but the echoing fruit explodes on the palate. There’s good acidity here too, with a smoky note that really comes out with air. Though less tannic that the first selection, it can still use some further cellaring.

I had a hard time picking a favorite between these two; the upfront fruit of the ’89 is hard to ignore, but then there’re those secondary complexities in the ’88 that add so much interest. I’d be more than willing to give the matter further consideration if someone had a couple more of these they’d be willing to donate to the cause… };^)>

1/4/01: The boys began the new millennium as they ended the old, with a solid 4-2 victory over the Dallas Stars. Pat Verbeek, the "little ball of hate," scored career goals #507 and #508 to pass Jean Beliveau in the all-time NHL list, and Martin LaPointe got the game winner, his first tally in fifteen games. The game was even more enjoyable with a couple of ’93 Gigondas.

1993 Santa Duc Gigondas: The bottle turned up missing before I could note the alcohol content of this deep dark garnet, but it’s a safe bet that it was in the 13-14% range. It has a nice bouquet of plum/prune/smoke/Brasso/ leather/cola that follows through on the palate, where the spicy Brasso/cola dominates, making it interesting and delicious. With enough tannins and acidity to take this further down the road without detracting from the enjoyment now, it has a finish that lingers long enough to add to the package. This has gone through an interesting evolution over the last five years or so, and I only wish that I had more.

1993 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas Reserve, $19.99, 14% alc.: The nose on this dark garnet isn’t as effusive as the Santa Duc, but it is prettier, with perfumed Brasso over smoky plum/blackberry, and a subtle creamy note that adds complexity. The flavors echo, and this is smooth and not too tannic, with good acidity and another nice finish. This will also continue to develop and improve for at least another few years; both wines are at remarkably similar points in their evolution and quite simply delicious.

Since then, the Red Wings have really picked their game up a notch; as of this report, they have yet to lose on home ice in 2001. Add to that the fact that Sergei Fedorov is performing at an MVP-type level, and the boys have been a lot of fun to watch. Of course, we’ve also continued to enjoy a succession of mostly fine Red Rhones.

1998 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas Reserve, $22.99, 14% alc.: Dark garnet; rather reticent plum/prune/licorice bouquet, with a wee hint of cola; these follow through and expand on the palate. Pretty tight, at first, but as it opens, pretty smoky cola comes to the fore, with the fruit turning redder; dense and intense, with good tannins and a nice, lingering finish that shows an earthy note. Really nice after four hours, this is still at least a five-seven year wine, if not more. Absolutely delicious!

1990 Domaine Le Mas des Collines Regis de Taxis Gigondas, 15.99, 13.5%alc.: This rusty ruby garnet is much as I remember it from past encounters, with pretty smoky red currant/ cherry/cola/Provencal herb aromas that have gained notes of leather and just a hint of cedar over the last year or so. Flavors echo with a touch of white pepper and some earth on the finish. This has been fun to watch evolve, but if I had any left, I'd probably be drinking up soon, as the tannins are resolved and it may have lost a wee bit of its charming fruit. A fond farewell to an old friend.

1998 Domaine Le Mas des Collines Regis de Taxis Gigondas, 18.99, 13.5%alc.: Dark garnet; typical cola over black raspberry, with a hint of red /black licorice/saddle leather, making for a very pretty perfume. Rich flavors echo and explode on the palate, with good acidity, and tannins that finally catch up on the finish, with some earth and a little tar. Very approachable now, with an abundance of potential for further development. Hello to a new friend, that we’ll definitely get to know better!

1998 M. Chapoutier Gigondas, $17.99 Can., 14% alc.: This ruby dark garnet was gifted to us by none other than Alan Kerr AKA Canadian Zinfan himself, who described it as "a fruit bomb." Well, he wasn’t wrong. The plum/red currant/berry bouquet isn’t that effusive, but it is quite pleasant. The flavors echo and expand with an added earthy character, firm but unobtrusive tannins, good acidity and a nice peppery finish. A good bargain at the current exchange rate, and a wine that should improve with a few years in the cellar.

1990 Domaine St. Benoit Chateauneuf du Pape Grande Garde, 14.5% alc.: Alan Kerr also opened this for us; dark garnet, with the barest hint of brick; big smoke/saddle leather over plum/prune. Flavors gain some added white pepper, with just a touch of anise, and some coffee on the finish. Quite tannic at first, but smoothes out nicely with a few hours of air. Delicious CdP that there’s no hurry to drink up; another five year won’t hurt this at all.

1996 Paul Jaboulet Aine Vacqueyras, $11.99-13.99: Deep dark garnet, with deep dark plum/prune and hints of leather/herb/olive iodine on the nose that are pleasant and appealing. Flavors echo nicely with added notes of coffee; despite a few years worth of tannins, good fruit shines through, and it continues to open with air. Good QPR with this perennial favorite, and it would be interesting to compare with the ’96 Jaboulet Reserve Personelle tasted earlier this season.

1995 Paul Jaboulet Aine Vacqueyras, $14.99, 13% alc.: Dark garnet; plum/prune/ cedar/smoke and a note of alcohol on the nose follow through in the flavors; missing something on the mid palate; finishes on a tarry note. Not up to the ’96; bought at closeout in Toledo, but still overpriced.

1998 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage, $18.99, 12.5% alc.: Dense dark garnet, almost opaque; signature bouquet of plum/olive/ garrigue/chocolate isn’t that effusive, but it is appealing; tight young flavors echo and show pretty well with three hours in a decanter. Smooth, dense mouthfeel, despite ample tannins and good acidity; excellent concentration of fruit; lots of garrigue on the finish, and typically astringent in its youth. Notes of smoke/coffee come out with extended air; continues to open and evolve, with a pretty perfume developing over five hours. Great stuff; give it at least five years.

1996 Paul Jaboulet Aine St. Joseph Reserve Personelle, $16.99, 12.5% alc.: Inky garnet; sweet plum and olive nose, with nice notes of underbrush. Flavors echo, where the olive dominates, but something is lost on the mid-palate and the somewhat astringent finish. Still young and raw; fairly dense texture, decent acidity and a few years worth of tannins should see that this improves some, but I won’t bother to follow its progress.

1985 Paul Jaboulet Aine Cote Rotie Les Jumelles, $34.99, 13% alc.: Still not much brick to this dark garnet; funky nose; in a good way; "wet straw, or hay..., wet, dead leaves, /forest floor," according to Alan Kerr. The usual prune-y flavors, shaded with "huge bacon/American tobacco/furniture polish/  vanilla," as Alan put it. Not quite as concentrated as the last time we tasted it, but still very impressive; a fine, mature Cote Rotie.


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By Bastardo




1988 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape
1989 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape

1993 Santa Duc Gigondas

1993 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas Reserve

1998 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas Reserve

1990 Domaine Le Mas des Collines Regis de Taxis Gigondas

1998 Domaine Le Mas des Collines Regis de Taxis Gigondas

1998 M. Chapoutier Gigondas

1990 Domaine St. Benoit Chateauneuf du Pape Grande Garde

1996 Paul Jaboulet Aine Vacqueyras

1995 Paul Jaboulet Aine Vacqueyras

1998 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage

1996 Paul Jaboulet Aine St. Joseph Reserve Personelle

1985 Paul Jaboulet Aine Cote Rotie Les Jumelles

 

 

 

 

Underground Index

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The Drawing of the Threes

  A Chat with J.C. Mathes of J et R Selections  

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  10 New Italian Reds

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Round 3

  Playoff Diary '02
Round 2

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  Côtes du Rhône-down 2002

  Red Wings & Red Rhones 2002

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