2006 Bruno Clair Marsannay le Longeroies, 13% alc., est. $38.99: Ruby red color, with earthy dried cherry character; medium full bodied, with good depth and decent structure. Fairly rich and not too complex, but nice for what’s here.

2006 Bruno Clair Savigny-les-Beaune la Dominode, 13% alc., est. $78.99: Ruby red, with earthy red plum and black cherry flavors and aromas; good depth, concentration and structure. I like the earthy bass notes that this one is playing.

2006 Bernard Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes, 13% alc., est. $31.49: Smoky garnet color; earthy black cherry and plum, with a hint of smoke, good depth and structure.

2006 Bernard Morey Maranges la Fussière, 13.5% alc., est. $28.49: Ruby red, with the brightest nose so far; slightly perfumed black cherry with earthy undertones. Smooth texture belies good structure; good length.

2006 Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne les Grands Chaillots, 13% alc., est. $31.49: Light ruby red, medium bodied, with basic, straightforward cherry and plum flavors and aromas; decent, if unexciting.

2006 Thibault Liger-Belair Nuit-Saint-Georges “Les Saint Georges,” 14% alc., $NA: Rich, ripe black cherry and plum with earthy undertones; rich, round and tasty, with good depth and structure. The deepest of the reds so far.

2006 J.M. Boillot Pommard Jarollières, 13% alc., est. $71.49: Toasty, smoky black cherry flavors and aromas with good earthy bass notes; well structured and fairly deep. The most substantial wine so far, even more so than the previous selection, with many years ahead of it.

2006 Thierry & Pascale Matrot Meursault Rouge, 13% alc., est. $38.49: Light ruby color; rich black cherry with earthy minerality and good depth. Riper than some of the others.

2006 Thierry & Pascale Matrot Volnay-Santenots, 13% alc., est. $52.99: Deep black cherry with a hint of vanilla, with good depth and structure and a nice finish; not as earthy as many of the others.

2006 Henri Gouges Nuit-Saint-Georges, 12.5% alc., est. $55.49 (est. $32.49 375 ml): Ruby red, with earthy plum and black cherry, with good depth and structure; nothing bright about this, so it’s a wine that will appeal to those who prefer their red Burgundy very dry. Needs time.

2006 Henri Gouges Nuit-Saint-Georges les Chenes Carteaux, 13% alc., est. $71.49: More of everything that the last one has.

2006 Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits, 12.5% alc., est. $25.49: Balanced smoky, earthy black cherry; full, rich and pleasurable. Medium full bodied, with good depth and length. I really like this and so does Kim, and look at that price!

2006 Mongeard-Mugneret Savigny-les-Beaune les Narbantons, 13% alc., est. $42.49: Earthy underbrush dominates the black cherry and plum flavors and aromas; excellent structure and depth, almost chewy. Needs time, but shows lots of promise.

2006 Mongeard-Mugneret Echézeaux Grand Cru, 13.5% alc., est. 96.99: Great promise here, with earthy black fruit and underbrush character and a dusty nuance that I like; very good structure and depth. Seemed to be the most hit on when I got to it, and probably my favorite of the bunch, along with the Savigny-les-Beaune les Narbantons.

2006 Vincent Girardin Santenay les Gravieres, 13.5% alc., est. $40.99: Moderately ripe black cherry and plum, with hints of underbrush that add interest; not plump, but rather like the 1950’s ideal of a beautiful woman, not quite Sofia Loren-like. Good depth, structure and promise. We’ve enjoyed a number of Girardin Santenays in the past, and here’s another to add to the list.

2006 Vincent Girardin Savigny-les-Beaune les Vergelesses, 13.5% alc., est. est. $40.99: Straightforward plum and black cherry with shades of earth and a hint of forest floor; good structure and depth. I like the Santenay les Gravieres better, but this is nice.

2006 Vincent Girardin Pommard les Vignots, 13% alc., est. $48.49: Big and rich; could almost be mistaken for an Oregon Pinot Noir, not that that’s a bad thing. Much more in the plum spectrum than cherry, with nice depth and structure. Good promise.

2006 Vincent Girardin Corton Renardes Grand Cru, 13.5% alc., est. $86.99: Perfumed aromatics, with a Asian five spice and black cherry and plum personality accented with subtle earth and forest floor; another Oregon-like character. Good depth, structure and length.

2006 Vincent Girardin Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, 13% alc., $NA: Underbrush right up front on the nose, followed by earthy black cherry and plum; excellent structure – a serious wine with great promise.

2006 Vincent Girardin Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, est. $158.99: This one has a huge core of fruit, and offers characteristics of smoky, slightly toasty plum, black cherry, underbrush and a hint of dark chocolate. Full bodied, well structured, with a lingering finish and great promise for future development. "Purists" may not like it, but Oregon Pinot Noir lovers will cream over it.

Our hostess pulled the following two selections from her cellar to serve with a spicy grilled rack of lamb dinner.

2002 Vincent Girardin Santenay les Greves Vieilles Vignes, 13.5% alc., $NA: Ruby red, with a funky nose that almost seems flinty; smoky, earthy plum and black cherry flavors show serious structure and very good depth. Rich fruit and earthy minerality provide an intriguing contrast. Give this one some time in the cellar, and patience will be rewarded.

2003 Vincent Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Boudriotte Vieilles Vignes, 13.5% alc., $NA: Charred oak, black cherry and something not unpleasantly funky; fruit forward without being bright.

Reporting from Day-twah,