Bastardo

Article and
Tasting Notes by
George Heritier



 

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Luca CarradoLuca Carrado returned to the Detroit area recently for a series of tastings and winemaker’s dinners promoting his family’s fine lineup of Vietti wines from the Piedmont region of Italy. I first met Corrado (right) about seven years ago, when I happened to stop in at Cloverleaf Fine Wines and Spirits to find him tasting through his wines in the back room with the staff. I enjoyed meeting him then, as his obvious enthusiasm for his work was infectious, and I enjoyed tasting his wines even more. Little has changed since then in that regard; his passion remains undiminished and the wines are every bit as good, if not better.

The wines of Vietti have both their fans and their detractors. Advocates love them for their sexy opulence, while others dis them for much the same reason, citing excessive extraction and oak treatment. I wouldn’t argue the fact that these aren’t likely to be confused with rustic, traditionally made Barberas, Barolos, Barbarescos, etc., but at the same time, I find a lot to like with everything I’ve tasted on this and other occasions. Luca has actually toned down the use of new oak over the years; as he told me when I asked him about it, “I’m not a big fan of oak. For me, oak is an instrument, not an ingredient.” Production is less than 20,000 cases per year.

The following wines were tasted in the offices of Vietti's local agents, Veritas Distributors of Warren, Michigan.

2006 Vietti Roero Arneis, 13% alc., $26.99: Medium straw color, with effusive green apple and mineral flavors and aromas; there’s a lot of floral, ripe fruit here, intense and yet very well balanced, with excellent acidity and length. Winemaker Luca Carrado says that 2006 was an incredible vintage for Arneis in Piedmont, and it shows in the glass. Sourced from 25 year old vineyards located in the middle of the Roero area, in Santo Stefano Roero, planted with 4,000 plants per hectare. The grapes are crushed, pressed and clarified. Alcoholic fermentation occurs in stainless steel autoclave at lower temperature (12-14°C) to preserve some natural CO2 from the fermentation. There is no malolactic fermentation. The wine is held in stainless steel tanks until bottling. Find this wine


2006 Vietti Dolcetto d’Alba Tre Vigne2006 Vietti Dolcetto d’Alba Tre Vigne, 14.5% alc., $26.99:
Quite dark in color, with intense, ripe plum on the nose and subtle floral overtones. Quite dense in the mouth, offering flavors of earth, mineral, black currants, blackberry and a little licorice. Full-bodied and well structured, showing impressive power and concentration along with the potential to age for a minimum of five years. When I mentioned the depth of color and flavor to Luca Corrado, he responded by telling me that yields were limited to 1.5 tons per acre and that everything Vietti makes is focused to be the highest quality it can be; they produce no “second” wines. He added, “Your least expensive wine should be one of your best,” in order to give customers a consistent product from bottom to top and not alienate them with an inferior wine on the lower end. Sourced from three vineyard sites, Monforte, Novello and Castiglione vineyards, which are around 25 – 30 years old, with 4,500 plants by hectare; sees both stainless steel and barrel for six months, with malolactic fermentation. Find this wine

2005 Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne, 13.5% alc., $22.99: Good dark color, with a hint of animal and a note of licorice over black currant and blackberry on the nose that follows through on the palate with lovely ripe fruit and just a kiss of oak. Full-bodied, with excellent structure and a somewhat opulent, almost velvety texture; already drinking beautifully, with great promise for further development over the next three to five years. Sourced from young vineyards, approximately 10 years old, in Agliano d’Asti that are planted 4,000 plants per hectare. Spends 14 days, in stainless steel tanks at 30-32°C; after malolactic fermentation, the wine is moved into French oak barrels for 12 months, then into steel tanks 2 months before bottling. Find this wine

“I’m not a big fan of oak. For me, oak is an instrument,
not an ingredient.” – Luca Carrado

2003 Vietti Barbera d’Asti La Crena2003 Vietti Barbera d’Asti La Crena, 14.5% alc., $45.99: Deep, dark color; on the nose, notes of sea air, licorice and “sticksy” underbrush accent the black currant and blackberry aromas. The like flavors are rich, ripe, dense and impressive, once again showing just a kiss of oak. Full bodied, with excellent structure and length; quite lovely. Sourced from the single vineyard La Crena in Agliano d’Asti with 3,800 plants by hectare, which are over 65 years old. Spends 8 days in stainless steel tanks; after malolactic fermentation, moved into French oak barrels for 16 months, then assembled in steel tank until bottling (unfiltered). Find this wine


2005 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Tre Vigne, 14% alc., $28.99:
Good dark color, with earth, sticks, black currant and blackberry on the nose; a little less ripe in the mouth than the ’05 Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne, with a little more earth, mineral and underbrush. Sleek, yet full bodied, well structured, long on the finish, and while not “rustic,” perhaps a little less “modern” than the Vietti Barbera d’Astis. Sourced from three 30/35 year old vineyard sites located in Monforte, Barolo and Castiglione Falletto with 4,300 vines by hectare. Kept in stainless steel tanks for 7 days at 26°C for alcoholic fermentation, then moved into 33 hl casks at the beginning of malolactic fermentation for 8 months. The wine is then transferred into large stainless steel tanks for blending, followed by two transfers into stainless steel tanks before bottling (unfiltered). Find this wine

2005 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone, 14% alc., $46.99: Almost opaque in color, with a mélange of expressive floral, earth, underbrush, licorice and black fruit flavors and aromas, showing serious concentration and intensity. Dense and well structured, this can be enjoyed now with some air, or you can put it down for five or ten years. Sourced from the 60-year-old Scarrone single vineyard situated close to the winery in Castiglione, planted with 4,600 plants per hectare. Spends 8 days in stainless steel tanks for the alcoholic fermentation at 26/28° C. At the beginning of malolactic fermentation, the wine is moved into French oak barrels for 16 months, then held in stainless steel tanks for 2 months before bottling (unfiltered). Find this wine

2005 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia2005 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia, 14% alc., $81.99: Sourced from vines of more than 85 years of age, this deeply colored Barbera exudes leather, licorice, earth, black plum and berry on the nose, all graced with subtle floral hints; the rich, ripe and concentrated flavors echo and expand dramatically with a pretty kiss of oak and great depth of fruit. So nice already that it’s hard to keep hands off now, but it shows great potential for aging. The grapes are severely selected from this vineyard, cultivated with 4,300 plants by ha. Vinification begins in stainless steel tanks for 8 days at 30° C with frequent pumping over; the wine is then moved into French oak barrels at the beginning of malolactic fermentation, where it remains for 18 months. The wine is assembled in stainless steel tank before bottling. Find this wine

2005 Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo, 13.5% alc., $29.99: This is not simple Nebbiolo, but 100% legal Barolo; winemaker Luca Carrado calls this their “baby Barolo.” Showing a slightly smoky tinge to its dark color, with restrained earthy black fruit and underbrush that echoes and expands considerably on the palate. An earthy, full-bodied wine, sleek yet well structured, for drinking now and over the next three to five years. No frills or pretensions, just solid, straightforward Nebbiolo. The grapes are selected from young vineyards in Castiglione, La Morra and Novello that are planted 4,500-5,000 plants by hectare. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation occur in stainless steel tanks at 26-28° C. The wine is moved into casks for 8 months, and then transferred to stainless steel tanks until bottling. Find this wine

2003 Vietti Barolo Brunate2003 Vietti Barolo Brunate, 14.5% alc., $108.99: Smoke tinged garnet color, with “sticksy” aromatics of black fruit and tobacco, kissed with a note of oak and floral hints; lots more of the same on the palate, being even more floral with an added note of blueberry. Silky, refined and deceptively well-structured; so fine now and yet full of promise for further development. Sourced from the historical cru Brunate, located in La Morra, planted 4,500 plants per hectare. The vines are 40 years old and grown using the Guyot system. Alcoholic fermentation occurs for 12 days at 30/32° C in stainless steel tanks with automatic and manual pumping up, followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 12 months in used French barrels, followed by an additional 24 months in cask, then assembled in stainless steel tanks and kept there until the bottling (unfiltered). Find this wine

2003 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito, 14.5% alc., $108.99: Smoke tinged garnet color, with a “sticksy” licorice and black fruit nose, graced with a pretty floral note, all following through on the palate very nicely. Perhaps less immediately ravishing and a bit more earthy that the Brunate after just having tasted that one, but very nice in its own regard, being silky and well structured for several years of future development. Sourced from the single vineyard Lazzarito in Serralunga, which has 4,300 plants by hectare that are 35 years old. Spends 11 days in stainless steel tanks for alcoholic fermentation at 30° C., then aged for 14 months in French oak barrels and another 14 months in Slovenian oak casks. It is then moved into stainless steel tanks until the bottling (unfiltered). Find this wine

2003 Vietti Barolo Rocche, 14.5% alc., $108.99: Good dark color with a slight tinge of smoke and a lovely, floral perfume of black fruit, blueberry, earth, underbrush and leather that follow through beautifully on the palate. Silky, yet well structured, so you can drink it now or drink it in 10 years. Sourced from the 45 year old vineyards in Roche of Castiglione, cultivated with 4,600 plants per hectare. Spends 13 days in stainless steel tanks at 30-32°C with frequent pumping over during the alcoholic fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is then aged in Slovenian oak cask for 26 months and transferred into stainless steel tanks for 6 months rest, before bottling. Find this wine

2001 Vietti Barolo Rocche, 14% alc.: This was poured to add another perspective on the Vietti Barolo Rocche experience. Smoke tinged garnet in color, with smoke, sticks and licorice on the nose, all of which takes a supporting role in the flavors to accent the rich, leathery black fruit. Rich, silky and deceptively structured; great now with food, and even better down the road. Find this wine

2003 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria2003 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria, 14% alc., $108.99: Dark garnet color with a slightly smoky tinge to it; floral hints grace subtle earth, underbrush and black and blue fruits on the nose, echoing and expanding in the rich, luscious flavors. Sleek, silky, deceptively well structured and long on the finish. I could drink this on a regular basis already, but it has a very nice future ahead of it. The grapes are harvested from the cru Masseria, located in Neive, where the vines are planted with 4,600 plants per hectare; vines are 40 years old and are grown by the Guyot system. Spends 13 days in open stainless steel tanks at 30 to 32° C for the alcoholic fermentation, which is immediately followed by malolactic fermentation with frequent pumping over. Aged in casks for 24 months then blended in stainless steel tanks one month before bottling (unfiltered). Find this wine

2007 Vietti Moscato d'Asti2007 Vietti Moscato d'Asti Cascinetta, 5.5% alc., $16.99: Moscato grapes, whether vinified or au natural, are so distinctive in flavor, and this medium straw colored spritzy little delight is quintessential Moscato, somewhat effervescent and sweet without being at all cloying. Medium bodied, rich, zesty and eminently drinkable, it serves equally well as an aperitif or an after dinner drink. Selected from different vineyards located in Castiglione Tinella, with only the best grapes used. The vineyards are planted with 4,500 plants per hectare, with a medium age of 34 years. Grapes are crushed, pressed and clarified. Before the bottling yeast is added and the temperature is raised to 12°-14° C. Alcoholic fermentation occurs in stainless steel autoclave, to preserve some natural CO2. There is no malolactic fermentation. At 5.5% alcohol, fermentation is stopped, and the wine is filtered and bottled. Find this wine

Reporting from Day-twah,

Bastardo 

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© George Heritier March, 2008