2001 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape “La Crau,” 14% alc., $48.99: Dark garnet color, with some barnyard on the nose that blows off to reveal a hint of decaying vegetation and not much else at this point; much more expressive on the palate, with flavors and aromas of beet root, plum and berry with some underlying cola, herbs, soft cocoa. A little deeper, darker, earthier and less immediately attractive than the 2000, with more obvious structure and in need of more time in the cellar, but there’s great potential, so try again on its 10th or 15th birthday.
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Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

1999 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage, 13% alc.: A deep, dark garnet colored Syrah with black fruit, a little bacon and some underbrush and dried herbs on the nose; plenty more of the same in the mouth and as it opens, it develops more and more leather. The fruit still seems primary, but the tannins aren’t intrusive; a little tart and a bit astringent, but not to the point of distraction. Good balance, structure and length, and a few more years in the cellar won’t hurt, as it gives the impression of being a very good 10 -15 year wine. If you pop one now, give it an hour or three in a decanter, because it just gets richer and richer with air. Find this wine

1999 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage La Guiraude, 13% alc.: Dark garnet color, with very similar flavors and aromas to the regular model (black fruit, a little bacon and some underbrush and dried herbs), but a little denser and plusher; deep, seamless and just so rich, if ever-so-slightly tart and astringent on the finish. As good as it is already, this is still on the way up and looks to be at least a 10 -15 year wine. What a lovely Syrah! Find this wine

Imported by Europvin U.S.A., Oakland, CA

2000 Château Fortia Châteauneuf du Pape, $16.95, 14% alc.: Another dark garnet here, one we haven’t had since 2004, and poured straight from the bottle with no decanting; it shows a little barnyard and a good dose of iron on the nose, and the iron dominates the deep black fruit flavors initially as well. The first thing to creep in and add nuance is a note of violet, of all things; next comes some herb and underbrush and then the leather. This is still a big young brute of a wine, full bodied, well structured and only starting to show what it will have to offer after a few hours of air; it’s not a great Châteauneuf, but it’s a really good one, especially at the Sams (Chicago) price from back then. Try again in 2010. Find this wine

Imported by Wines of France, Inc., Mountainside, NJ

2004 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf du Pape, 13.5% alc., $42.99: A uniform dark garnet color from rim to rim, and not giving a lot on the nose, even with air and swirlatude; although it seems a little lean on the palate, it offers pretty much the same flavor profile that these have over the years, with iron, leather, smoke and violets over earthy, dusty black fruit and beet root. Well structured, but approachable, with substantial tannins that don’t bite like some young southern Rhônes, though they do clamp down on the finish. Like the ’01, this is pretty darned nice in its youth, getting better and better with air (surprise!), but it should develop over 10 -15 years and beyond. We love Bois de Boursan at our house. Find this wine

2000 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf du Pape, 13.5% alc., $42.99: Slightly cloudy dark garnet color, with a gorgeous nose of saddle leather, iron and smoke supported by beet root and black fruit; the flavors echo loudly, with a smooth texture that belies the significant tannins and ample acids, giving it a bit of a bite at first, but smoothing out nicely with an hour and a half of air. More than approachable now, but probably at least five years from optimum drinking, so patience is still advised here.
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2001 Château de Montmirail Gigondas Cuvée de Beauchamp, 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 19% Mourvedre, 14% alc., $26.99: Ruby dark garnet in color; the big, ripe plum berry and cherry vie for dominance with smoked stone and iron in both flavor and aroma. Full bodied, but just, with solid structure and significant tannins that clamp down some on the finish. I’d be lying if I said that I was surprised that air really helps this (or any of the others noted here for that matter), and an hour and more does just that. Rich, ripe, earthy and delicious, but still on the way up and a long way from peaking. Find this wine

Domaine Bois de Boursan and Château de Montmirail imported by J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI

Reporting from Day-twah,