By Bastardo

1999 Terrabianca Ceppate Toscana, 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, $49.99, 13% alc.: This ruby dark garnet never does throw much of a nose, so one has to be satisfied with the almost candied black cherry, red currant and chocolate flavors that seem more Cali - centric or Oz - ified than Eye - talian. Some burry tannins initially add an impression of underbrush that extends through the finish, but these smooth out quickly with air, as this medium full bodied red turns sweet, sleek and silky. At first, it almost doesn't taste like a cabernet - merlot blend, but as it opens, an earthy note comes on to bring it back to a somewhat more characteristic personality. It certainly has the fruit and the structure to last the five to eight years that it needs to fully mature, but will it ever "grow a nose?" Pretty expensive for a wine so lacking in aromatics right now.

1999 Terrabianca Piano del Cipresso Toscana, 100% Sangiovese, $32.49, 13% alc.: This dark garnet is rather more aromatic than the Ceppate, with dried black cherries accented by overtones of sweet oak and hints of earth, tar and licorice. Flavors veer dramatically towards quintessential sangiovese character, with the dried black cherries, licorice, tar, earth and some added underbrush coming to the fore, while the sweet oak is much subdued. Sleek and silky, but not nearly as sweet as the Ceppate, the tannins need at least three to five years for this to show its best, but even so, this is damned drinkable already. Very Tuscan in nature, with that deep, dark sangio personality, excellent (but balanced) acidity and a good long finish, I like this a lot, and the price is much more in line with what's in the bottle that the Ceppate too.

 

1990 Anselma Barolo, 14% alc.: Almost inky, this deep, dark garnet gives off aromas of dried black currant, black cherries and licorice that follow through in the flavors with some tobacco to boot. Like the La Spinona, this is drinking well with an hour or so of air; the acidity is good, the finish is long and the wine is even richer and more delicious that the Barbaresco. It should be showing really well around 2010. 

1996 Frescobaldi Merlot Lamaione Toscana IGT, $51.99, 13.5% alc.: Showing a somewhat musty character on the nose that in this case is a positive attribute, rather than a detraction, this deep, dark garnet also gives earthy aromatics of cedar, plum and black currant. Flavors echo, being very dry and showing silky tannins, plenty of acidity, and as it opens, some subtle tobacco leaf, soft sweet oak and cherry. The finish features chalky, drying tannins, and overall, this reminds me of one of those Right Bank Bordeaux that I've been cozying up to lately. Despite the fact that I find it quite enjoyable, I have two complaints: I'd like just a little more depth and complexity to the fruit, and the price is plain stupid for what's in the bottle. 

Imported by Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL 

1996 Fattoria Montellori Salamartano Toscana IGT, $41.99, 12.5% alc.: Upon his first whiff and sip of this dark garnet cabernet sauvignon - merlot blend, Alan Kerr exclaimed, "A lot of vanillin, a little heady on the nose, but man, the fruit!" He added an impression rich blackberry, and it also shows some subtle toast and a little black currant, with a soft leathery quality and some nice spicy undertones. Beautifully structured, well balanced, with well integrated oak, this is one very nice Italian claret. Good to go now, or a few years down the road. 

A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Imported by Winebow, Hohokus, NJ

1998 Fattoria Villa la Selva Feliciaia Toscana, $29.99, 13% alc.: Dried cherry, red licorice and subtle sweet oak aromatics follow through in the flavors of this deep, dark garnet Sangiovese, where they gain a note of tree bark (which I used to munch on as a child). As it opens and smooths out, more red fruit comes to the fore, mostly red currant, with subtle hints of chocolate as well; it continues to get sweeter and prettier with air, but ultimately, it'll always be an excellent dry Tuscan red. With tannins to take it to its 10th birthday and beyond, the requisite acidity that one expects and a finish somewhat crimped by the grip, this will show best now with at least an hour in a decanter before drinking. 

Imported by Empson (USA) Inc., Alexandria, VA 

2000 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre ®, Veronese IGT, $15.99, 13.5% alc.: We've always liked previous vintages of this wine, but never took the time to take notes. Kim described this big bold dark garnet as "eminently drinkable, right out of the bottle," and she was correct. It exudes an effusive, almost overripe bouquet of black cherry, black berry, plum and chocolate, with hints of tar lurking in the background. The flavors echo nicely, with somewhat better manners, where the chocolate morphs into a cocoa - ish character. Not too tannic, with just enough acidity and a fairly long finish that finally turns tarry right towards the end, this wine could easily be mistaken for an Aussie of Californian red, but don't hold that against it. 

1999 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre ®, Veronese IGT, $18.99, 13.5% alc.: This deep, dark garnet shows less dusty cocoa than we remember from our last taste, but like its successor, gives lots of deep dark fruit on the nose, with some barnyard, licorice, tar and underbrush to mix things up. The dense, intense flavors echo with medium tannins that aren't intrusive, and a nice long finish. This is a big powerhouse that can continue to develop for a good five years anyway, but you might have trouble keeping your hands off now. 

Allegrini Wines Imported by Winebow, Inc., New York, NY 

Reporting from Day-twah,

Bastardo

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© George Heritier May 2004