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EURO WHITES AND REDS

 
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REDS

1982 Chateau La Mission-Haut-Brion Graves; 12 % alc.: Dea said anything in her collection was fair game, and DJ was lusting after this, so it was opened, and what a beauty it is! It’s an inky dark garnet with little rust to speak of, with tobacco/olive/cassis/plum aromas that follow through on the palate with a lovely silky richness. It opens very nicely with air, but tannins and acidity will take this another five years down the road easily. A very special treat, this got a 97 from the Wine Spectator, for those who put credence in such matters…

1990 Castello Banfi Summus (in magnum); 13 % alc.: This was a perfect accompaniment to our entrée selections, (Lauren’s lamb wrapped in Rosemary, hank’s Filet Mignon with Tarragon butter, Kim’s Paella and my braised shank of lamb), but then we knew it would be.  This ruby garnet was everything that I remembered and more. Soft and fully mature, it exudes a smoky dried cherry/licorice/prune/hint of chocolate character that is great right out of the magnum, and even better with half an hour and more in the glass. A ravishing wine that is silky smooth and oh so fine.

1995 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas: I hadn’t tasted this since early last hockey season, so I brought it along, having one stashed in califusa’s cellar. Ruby dark garnet, with plum/prune/hint of Provencal herb/soft chocolate and a bit of what Bob correctly described as white pepper, this is every bit as tasty as it was 10 months ago. But, the best part is that it’ll only get better!

 WHITES

1983 Chateau Climens Sauternes-Barsac. I didn’t get a sip from the first one that was opened, but was told that it may have been a little off. Not so with the second, though; this medium gold was an absolute beauty, starting out with toasty vanilla/apricot and opening with air, as its temperature came up. Scott Shewbridge let loose with a stream of impressions that included "honey wax/raisin/orange petal/toast" and "finishes with a bit of bitterness." He then went on to note a "resin-y/pitch-y/pine-y" quality, all without the aid of his trusty slide rule.

1997 Christoffel Erben Urzinger Wurzgarten Spatlese; 8 % alc.: This crisp pale
straw is a delight, with its floral/apple/Riesling bouquet and sweet green apple flavors
with just a hint of pine. "Ain’t dat da rocks?" asked Joe. "It’s so refreshing," said Bree,
‘it cleans everything away."

1997 Thomas Labaille Sancerre Chavignol "Les Monts Damnes" Cuvee
Buster
; 13 % alc.: "It’s a saliva sucker," Kim commented, and while it is quite crisp
and acidic, it also has a creamy quality about it. Mineral/wet stone dominates the
grapefruit/green apple nose, but the fruit takes over big-time on the palate, with a nice
herbal quality as well. Only one barrel of this terrific Sauvignon was made.

1995 F.X. Pichler Gruner Veltliner Dornsterner Kellerberg (Smaragd) Wachau:
This pale-medium gold has a "canned peas nose and a black pepper palate,"
according to Madame L’Pour; I got added notes of bees wax and honey. While this
didn’t wow me like it does Joe, I’d like to spend some more time with it and get to
know it better, as I found it most intriguing.

1994 Weingut Brundlmayer Zobinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben (Riesling; Austria); 12.5 % Alc.: SFJoe always brings great Austrian whites with him to these affairs, and tonight was no exception; he contributed three. This pale straw is smooth and refreshing, with pretty floran/apple/mineral/bees wax characteristics.

1994 Weingut Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Ried Loiser Berg; 12.5 % alc.: Another pale to medium straw, with a wee hint of petrol over Granny Smith green apple/mineral flavors and aromas. I found the flavors to be rich and tasty, but Joe said this was a little funky. I’ll take his word for it; he’s had it before. His friend Sharon said this was reminiscent of a "wet bunny." A definite nominee for "Best Tasting Note Descriptor of the Year…"

1994 Josef Jamek Riesling Smaragd Zwerithaler Joching Wachau; 13.5 %: This medium straw shows dry wet stone/green apple character that Joe called rustic, adding "but I like it! Not the highest expression of the varietal, though" Well, I liked it too, and I’d buy some of these, if they were available in Day-twah.

1987 Paul Cotat Sancerre Chavignol "Des Monts Damnes": This was an orphan left over from Pagani Madness, and I was determined to see how it had held up over the last year. Pale gold with a tinge of green, it again showed an unmistakable white concord note on the nose, with a mineral/vegetal undertone. There’s still decent crispness to the green apple/mineral/moss/wet stone flavors, and I was a little surprised when Bree said he liked it! He noted "intricate flavors and perfumed soap/cream soda/root beer on the nose."

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