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Northwest Airlines did their best to keep me from getting to North Carolina on Saturday, but I finally arrived sometime after 6 PM, and was almost immediately hooked up with a delicious glass of Haut - Brion Blanc, and we were on our way. Col. Bob Cuozzi was busy preparing mushroom and truffle butter risotto, haricot verts and pea soup with pork in the kitchen, while Michael Ross was grilling mallards and teals wrapped in bacon. (The mallards were stuffed with jalapeno cream cheese, including just enough of the peppers to give them just a bit of a kick.) After aperitifs, we sat down to a terrific dinner, accompanied be a trio of great Châteauneuf - du - Papes. Besides Greg and his wife Tami, Col. Bob, Michael and his lady friend Adair Sigmon, we were also joined by Boyce Brannock.

1995 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf - du - Pape, 13.5% alc.: Showing no bricking as of yet to its dark garnet color, this exudes classic Pegau - CdP aromatics of smoke, spice, earth, plums and berries, all of which follow through brilliantly in the flavors; as it opens with air, it shows more and more garrigue. Considerably more friendly than the last time we tried this, showing sweet, rich fruit and unobtrusive tannins, with a smooth mouth feel and long finish. Marvelous stuff, and still not at its peak.

1990 E. Guigal Châteauneuf - du - Pape, 13.5% alc.: A slightly rusty dark garnet; like the Pegau, showing a classic CdP personality of smoke, earth, spice, plum, prune, berry and garrigue. Still some tannins here, but opens with air, and drinks wonderfully. A delicious match for the Ross's yummy teal, and in no danger of fading anytime soon.

1998 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf - du - Pape Cuvee da Capo, 16% alc.: A deep, dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, with almost monolithic aromatics that only hint at the smoke and earth and spice and deep dark fruit that will emerge as it matures. There's heat here, and significant tannins, but also tons of promise, and in fact, this opens dramatically in the glass, showing signature Pegau character, even taking on a little dark chocolate to the flavor profile; Ross somehow finds it reminiscent of an Ogier Côte Rôtie. Amazingly rich and concentrated, needing at least another 10 years to really do it justice.

There were a few other things to try besides the CdPs, starting with a Chinon I brought along from Day - twah.

2000 Joguet Chinon Clos del la Dioterie, 12.5% alc.: Dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, with an effusive nose of blackberry, black currant, a hint of the barnyard and subtle floral undertones; Bob mentions an impression of autumnal leafiness. The flavors mirror the aromatics, obviously being somewhat lighter than the Chateauneufs, and turning somewhat astringent as they progress towards the finish. It opens nicely with air, but needs time to develop and improve; nice, and well - received, but not the best Joguet we've had, even considering its youth.

1999 Valhalla Syrah North Fork of Roanoke (VA), 13% alc.: Ruby dark garnet, with smoke, tar, coffee, toast, plum and blackberry in flavor and aroma; nice density and presence, not too tannic, with good acidity and a decent finish. Took half an hour or more to open and come around; a nice wine, if lacking some of the density and concentration found in more established Syrah producing regions; a tip of the top hat to Boyce (left) for bringing this along.

2000 Blankiet Estate Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Paradise Hills Vineyard: Someone mentioned that they'd never tasted one of these Helen Turley - made wines (it could have been me), so Michael obliged by sending Bob down to Greg's cellar and returning with this. The vineyard abuts Dominus, in Yountville, and the wine itself is rather backward, almost too much so to evaluate right now. It shows lots of coffee, toast and vanilla over black currant, cassis and blackberry; the oak is big, but not over - the - top.

Along with walnuts and Stilton we finished up with a lovely 1966 Taylors Vintage Port (19 - 21% alc.) that was classic and absolutely lovely. By this time, I'd abandoned taking notes, but I can report that this was mighty fine.

On to the main event ====>>>

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