Storyline, Tasting Notes & Photos: George Heritier

How do you get the experience of NASCAR without attending a race?

Turn the grill on ‘High’. Come back in and turn every radio and television to the race with
the volume all the way up. Run back out and dump 10 pounds of rubberbands on the grill.
Bring the grill inside. Sit in front of the television with chicken wings and longnecks.
Throw chicken bones at the screen for full effect.

Intro | Saturday Night Qualifying | Race Day | Gallery

Race fans began gathering shortly after noon at Chez Ellis, sipping on some lovely white Rhônes, and noshing on a variety of cheeses and home baked bread. Those in attendance included the previous evening's cast, minus Boyce, Steve and Barbara South (I really liked Steve's "Got Chave" baseball cap), Mary Tanner and Andy Counts and David and Teresa Mackey. We were also quite jazzed to make the acquaintance of Brown Councill's hayseed twin brother, Cleetus, one of North Carolina's most avid Scuppernong aficionados. Unfortunately, he brought none along with him, so we had to do with a delicious Austrian Riesling for openers.

1999 Brundlmayer Riesling Heiligenstein: Pale straw, with wet stones, under-ripe green apples, a little quince and hints of petrol lurking about; fairly dense, with good acids and a nice long finish. Very tasty indeed.

1995 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc "De L'Oree," 100% Marsanne, 13.9% alc.: Rich golden color, with a faint nose of dog fur, toffee and caramel; more toffee and caramel in the mouth, along with "that waxy thing that I love about these old Rhônes," as Col. Bob put it. The aromas bloom to show more toffee, caramel and sea air, and the texture is creamy smooth, with just enough acidity to work. Shows none of the maderized, oxidized character that is sometimes found with older models like these, and could very well be at its peak.

2000 Chateau de Beaucastel Châteauneuf - du - Pape Blanc, 80% Rousanne, with the remainder Grenache Blanc, Picardan, Bourboulanc and Clairette, 13.5% alc.: Pale gold, with mineral, bees wax, honey, sea air, apple and pear on the nose; seamless flavors echo beautifully, with just enough acidity and a long finish. So smooth.

1999 Gangloff Condrieu, 14% alc.: Medium straw, with restrained aromatics of subtle honeysuckle and melon over apple and pear, and the faintest smidgen of banana; opens nicely in the glass, showing more of everything that the nose promises. Not in the same league as the two previous wines, but nice on its own terms.

With the whites out of the way, we moved on to what were, for me, the three wines of the day; all were enjoyed with Bob's lamb stew (lamb, garlic, oil cured olives, fresh rosemary, white wine, a little chicken stock and leftover dead ducks) and a mild curry red lentil side dish.

1982 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle, 13% alc.: Showing hardly any brick to its dark garnet color, and exuding a gorgeous bouquet of smoke, olives, iodine, dark plums, spice and a little earth and dust, with flavors to match; so smooth, at its peak, and truly a marvelous wine.

1991 A. Clape Cornas, 12.5% alc.: Ruby dark garnet, with no rust to speak of; dusty, earthy, stony black fruit, black olives and leather on the nose and the palate. Col. Bob described a "dusty, brambly back - in - field kind of thing," and Steve added impressions of "blood and sweat, in a clean kind of way," calling it "the epitome of great Cornas." On the last point in particular, I couldn't agree more.

1995 E. Guigal Côte Rôtie La Turque, 13% alc.: Deep dark garnet, with a decidedly different character than the preceding two wines, showing sweet oak, in good proportion to the blackberry, black currant and black cherry flavors and aromas, with an added hint of wet dog fur on the nose. Smooth and rich, with soft tannins; sweet on entry, but dry by the long finish. Smells something like an Oz Shiraz, and tastes a little like one too; a great Green Flag kind of wine.

Just about the time I finished with those three, Bobbie Labonte blew an engine, and I went for more wine.

1998 Gangloff Côte Rôtie La Sereine Noire, 13% alc.: Deep dark garnet, with black olive, bacon and black fruit on the nose; flavors echo with vegetal undertones, nice concentration and some tannins still to lose. Not as deep as the last three wines.

1998 Gangloff Côte Rôtie La Barbarine, 13% alc.: Purple pinkish garnet, and not as effusive aromatically as the La Sereine Noire; plum and prune, with smoke, bacon, underbrush and rhubarb in support. Moderate tannins and good length.

"Earnhardt's 26th?! Where's your teeth, man?" - Greg to Cleetus

1998 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf - du - Pape Cuvée Chantemerle Vieilles Vignes, 13.5% alc.: Slightly smoky dark garnet, with medium strength smoke, meat, plum and berry on the nose; flavors echo with a big dose of earth, and a little funky something or 'nother. Big tannins need lots of time, even after considerable air, but there's excellent concentration here; I'd like to revisit this in 5 - 8 years.

1998 Domaine du Pegau Châteaneuf - du - Pape, 13.5% alc.: Smoky dark garnet, with a deep, dark, tight Pegau nose; smoke, earth, spice, plum and berry flavors and aromas. Big, bad and bumptious, but after a few hours of air, this is actually drinking pretty well. Classic Pegau, just give it at least another 5 years.

1999 Eric Texier Côte Rôtie Vieilles Vignes, 13% alc.: Deep dark garnet, with garrigue, pepper, plum, prune and berry character; Col. Bob added impressions of a "tobacco barn and olives," calling it "racy (a good choice of words on this occasion)." Has a sleek mouth feel and significant tannins, so try again in 2009 - 2012.

1997 Jasmin Côte Rôtie, 12.5% alc.: Deep dark garnet; very tight, very closed, with underbrush, rhubarb, black fruit and gamey animal characteristics. Really astringent towards the finish, and in need of serious time in the cellar.

Once again, there was some serious sweet stuff for the finale courtesy of Col. Bob, this time in the form of some 1970 Fonseca Vintage Port, and once again, I was past the point of taking notes.  All I can say is that I wish I had multiple bottles of this beauty stashed in the cellar from heck.

In the end, no one was too thrilled that Jeff Gordon crossed the finish line first; he doesn't seem to have much fan base among this crowd. Everyone was, however, most pleased with the food, the wine and the genial camaraderie shared by all. That is, after all, what these things are really all about. Many thanks to Greg and Tami for opening their home and hosting such a fine event, and to Col. Bob and Michael Ross for their excellent work over stove and grill. Thanks also to all who attended for their contributions of food, wine and friendship. Finally, special thanks to Greg and Bob for getting me to and from the Greensboro Airport. Hitchhiking would have definitely slowed me down.

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Intro | Saturday Night Qualifying | Race Day | Gallery