Tasting Notes: 
Larry Meehan

Larry Meehan's TNs

Cocktail Party Wines (Moe's room)

1999 Romano Clelia  Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino -- notable for its smooth, glass-like texture, this Italian white features plenty of white stone fruit, bright citrus and measured acidity -- lightly styled/elegant. The nose offers up honeysuckle, herb and beeswax (none of yours, btw). My brief interlude did not "wow" me, but that said -- nice wine.

1999 Feudi di San Gregorio “Cutizzi,” Greco di Tufo, Vendemmia Tardiva -- a flint and gun powder nose...just a bit hot with alcohol. Not showing much acid...soft with butterscotch  and waxy flavors...some whiskey barrel on the finish. Not a favorite of mine...

1987 Trimbach Riesling, Cuvee Frederic Emile -- plenty of apricot, honey and mineral forging a gorgeous bouquet. Bright acids convey a vibrant blast of apricot fruit, bright herbs and plenty of stone...more stone and gun powder through the finish. My favorite white amongst the early "cocktail wines"...just loved its verve and complexity. After relaying my impressions to many in the room I was so sad to find that it had collapsed into an ugly void within 20 minutes of opening...well, it was lots of fun while it lasted!

1993 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay, Cuvee LD, Sonoma Country --  beeswax and plenty of alcohol rise from the stem...hot, thin and ugly in the mouth.

2001 Mouton Condrieu, Cote Bonnette -- lovely apricot and floral tones, but not much to taste -- waxy and oily, with some mineral, but thin...lacking fruit.

NV Champagne Pierre-Peters Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil sur Oger Grand Cru -- I'm not a great appreciator of many bubblies that have come my way, but this is certainly an exception. Yeasts, roasted almonds, vanilla bean and hops form a delightful bouquet. Layered and complex...the yeast, rocks and nuts are conveyed by good acidity and framed in a dense mousse. Excellent stuff!

2000 Prager Weissenkirchen Klaus Riesling Smaragd Trocken, Wachau  -- Quite beautiful and many faceted on the nose -- apricot, white peach, granite and a dusting of dried herbs. Acids are pronounced on the palate, and seem to be quite inhibiting at present, as the wine lacks depth...seeming predominantly herbal. Revisit in 2-4 years -- it will likely be much nicer.

1999 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Herrenwag de Turckheim -- lemon rind, white peach and stone...lip smacking acidity and a touch of alcoholic heat. Not particularly  deep, rich, or complex at present.

1993 Trimbach Riesling, Cuvee Frederic Emile -- Another pretty "Freddie E" -- floral tones with gun powder and shaved stone. The acids are bright and strong (it really does need more time), but still attractive with grapefruit juice and zest, accented by herbs and stones. Perhaps a bit short on the finish -- probably longer with air.

2000 Sandstone Reserve Chard  Niagara Peninsula -- a wine Alan Kerr plucked from his "back yard". Spicy, with plenty of tart apple on the nose...some late arriving floral notes. The palate follows the nose with nice juicy fruit with tart counterpoints....good persistance.

1995 Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino -- the first red of the night for me (though I should have waited longer to tackle this tannic 95). Cherry liqueur, saw dust and light earth all rise from the glass. " Crunchy" tannins and bright acids seem to hinder the fruit, though the anise and dusty earth accents are nice.

1986 Louis Martini Monte Rosso Cab -- Earthy, herbal, rustic and pretty much fruitless.  

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Off to the lobby to  sample more wines...

1992 St. Francis Zinfandel, Pagani Ranch, Old Vines -- very black and dense in appearance. Rich milk chocolate and blackberry forms a cloud over the rim. It is creamy and thick in the mouth, offering up plenty of rich chocolate, cocoa, and a light earthy core. The tannins seem reasonable, and there is just enough acid at work...Long and satisfying...not really overdone.

I've not been a huge fan of St Francis winery, but this Zin was quite nice.

1992 Ridge Pagani ATP Zinfandel -- yes, it is true -- I am a fan of the "silver caps"...this wine is just one more reason to admire the folks who make wine up at Monte Bello. A dense cloud of coffee, black berries, herbs, and tantalizing spice forms and lingers over my stem. For the most part, the palate follows along -- led by the rich blackberry fruit. Nice accents of underbrush, spice, and dark coffee with a splash of cream drive the point home. The wine is not overly thick, but dense, and jammed with flavor and nuance. The tannins add some welcome coarseness as a counterpoint, but all in all, becoming well integrated. The finish is long and lingering with spice. This is probably the best Pagani bottling I recall drinking (no need to spit this one ;-), though "good" bottles of '91 have been exceptional, too.

1997 R. Chevillon Nuits-St Georges Les Cailles Premier Cru -- Too bad -- Corked.

1993 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley -- Quite cloudy and light in color. Showing nice cherry/strawberry fruit against an earthy back drop. There is not a great deal of backbone, so "drink up".

1953 Climens, Barsac -- from the chairman Moe birthday collection -- a gift to us all! I was amazed at the degree of ripe, botrytis fruit this 50 year old wine still possessed -- thick waves of sweet apricot and candied apple flavor...turning toward creme brule at the finish. I wish it showed more acid, as I would have liked to have found a foil for the thick syrupy sweetness. All that said, it was a wonderful treat and experience.

1998 Evesham Wood Pinot Noir, Temperance Hill Vineyard -- plenty of funk, earth, herbs, and later, flowers. Initially there is a burst of sweet, ripe, Bing cherry, which then turns (not unpleasantly) slightly tart. More minerals and earth show up on the palate...increasing sense of complexity...nice acids bring it all toward a pretty peak. Still a young wine. Superb with the Tuna.

Evesham Wood continues to impress me.

2000 Siduri Pinot Noir, Arbre Vert Vineyard, Oregon -- Mark Horvatich relayed to me that this was a "one time" vineyard source for Siduri. A very complex array of herbs and spices on the nose -- different combinations seem prominent even in a short interval. Slightly tart cherry flavors are accented by orange peel, mineral and an Oregonian earthiness. It comes across as tangy with acid, but expressing a good sense of purity in the fruit...not much apparent oak character.

1993 R. Engel  Vosne Romanee -- funky, leathery, and meaty...black cherry fruit, finishing tart as a result of the racy, but potent acids. There is plenty of character here, but like many 93's I've tried as late -- not yet ready. It does seem to have the components for further development.

1979 Emile Champet Cote-Rotie, Brune et Blonde -- yet another from the "Moe collection". A beautiful Rhoney perfume of leather, olives and roasted meat, though Bill P  commented to me "Does not stink enough" -- being the "purist" that he is. Ripe Bing cherry fruit turns peppery through the center...vibrant acidity...finishing a bit tart. I really enjoyed this one -- seemingly more than others with whom I spoke.

1996 Robert Biale Zinfandel, Aldo’s Vineyard, Napa Valley -- sweet, ripe blackberries...lots of coffee and alcohol...plenty of spice and sweet tobacco on the finish. Nice zin -- tastes very "Napa" in style.

1999 Lamborghini "Campoleone" -- violets and plummy fruit on the nose. Initially ripe and unctuous, but then turned very disjointed. Showing too much oaky/"international" character at present... Where did all those gorgeous tannins go? -- the were there in spades when I tasted this a year ago...

1999 Rochioli "Three Corners" PN, RRV -- there was some brief debate as to whether this wine was corked or not -- it was not, and the bottle was quickly drained. There was some initial funk, then maple syrup and bright floral tones powered the nose. The palate shows plenty of nice cherry/strawberry fruit, accented well by light herbs and plenty of spice...bright, slightly prickly acids. It has a long finish of spice and saw dust.

A young pinot -- very enjoyable, but it really needed more air time to shine.

1993 Banfi "Summus" -- black fruits, anise and earth...plenty of structure, but seemingly with fruit to match it. Not a great wine, but still mighty nice.

1999 Hammacher Pinot Noir -- plenty of violets and Oregon garrigue...earthy with flinty minerals. Smooth cherry fruit with some rhubarb in support...earth and spice at the core. Another young but interesting (and delicious) pinot.

1999 Dehlinger PN RRV -- sweet, spicy, and molasses-like on the nose. Sweet black fruits are backed by nice earth, tar, and minerals -- pleasantly nuanced for a young wine. Wraps up with plenty of spice...unobtrusive structure.

1993 Clape Cornas -- a better bottle than the one we had a few weeks back at the Paumen's. Earthy and gamy as per usual, but expressing better fruit. Nice "bad vintage" effort.

1999 Venge Late Harvest Zin -- geo t summed it up nicely for me -- "what an atrocity". It really was not pleasant with all that high alcohol/over ripe character, but that said, it still had a few fans...hey that big black fruit was certainly rich.

1999 Edmunds St. John Wylie -Fennaughty Syrah -- OK, sure...it was badly flawed (I understand there are some big problems with a large percentage of these bottles), and Mark was right in saying it would have made fine vinegar for salad dressing, but I actually found the searing acids a cleansing and welcome relief for my worn down palate...oh well. ;-)

1996 Biale Petite Sirah -- a wine I brought out just because Mitch Tallan enjoys PS so much. I thought it was very representative -- big black fruits, shoe polish and mineral, and wide swaths of chewy tannins. I was told it was an excellent "cigar wine". Though I do not typically smoke, after a few late evenings of second hand inhalation with "Castro's cousins" I feel I know a good deal more about cigars...yeah, the wine was a good match!

1996 Ridge Late Harvest Zinfandel, Heart’s Desire, Trentadue Ranch -- almost too sweet, ripe and rich for me...not really a style I like.

1998 La Spinnetta “Oro,” Moscato Passito -- when it was served to me initially it was a bit too cold -- showing apricot, peach skin and plenty of alcohol. When sipped late in the night it was very nice. Plenty of high toned floral and white/yellow fruit notes -- a tantalizing nose. Dense white peach/apricot fruit, but never too thick...well balanced with acid... a real pleasure.

1983 Rieussec, Sauternes -- A big bouquet of of sweet flowers, honey and very ripe white stone fruits. In the mouth it is intense (almost edgy) with apricot and syrupy peach -- amplified and invigorated by gorgeous acids. For just pure drinking pleasure, I preferred this to the '53, as it has lovely balance. Wonderful and delicious!

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Saturday Afternoon/Night --

2001 E. Texier Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc -- plenty of stone, wax, and honey dew forms up in the nose...becoming thicker and thicker. It has an oily feel as it slides across the tongue -- light doses of lemon and gooseberry, but finishing with a good helping of beeswax and mineral. Nice wine.

1996 Domaine du Closel Savennieres -- For the second year in a row, this was my "mussel" wine -- though this did not benefit from the extended aeration that last year's did, it was still quite delicious. It was initially very tight, offering plenty of stones and herbs, but then started its ascent by adding good pear and apple fruit. All the flavors are nicely conveyed by a bright acid -- becoming quite complex, but still quite young!

1992 J.L. Chave Hermitage Blanc -- waxy and nutty, though it seems to fade away very quickly. Certainly not horrible, but not particularly note worthy, either.

NV Champagne Krug Grand Cuvee -- Most champagnes are an interesting diversion or a festive sip for me, but Krug (slushy and all) was an exquisite pleasure for my senses as well as my soul. Quintessential Champagne -- close your eyes and imagine a great bottle...this was certainly one for me. Wonderful balance, texture and persistence...

2001 Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc -- Lots of floral scents along with two scoops of spice...mostly melon-like fruit. In the mouth it is bright and sassy (more grapefruit and citrus zest)...bit of mineral...ample spice...nice acids. It was just what I expected -- delicious!

1999 Chateau Nerleaux  Samur-Champigny -- Mark H. pulled the cork on this one and immediately dropped it off for me to try - "this one is right in your wheel house" -- indeed, it was. I must be getting far too predictable...;-)

I was told this was from 70+ year old vines, and I'd guess it was predominantly Cab Franc. There were some funky herbal essences, along with scents of "good" root beer, and damp earth. The palate is well charged with vibrant acidity, but it still carries good weight -- dark fruits, with more root beer, tree bark, rocks, and a swampy sort of garrigue...perhaps a bit peppery through the finish. Pretty darned interesting/compelling for a wine so young, and one of the least expensive wines in a killer line up...it showed very well.

1973 Montrose, St. Estephe -- musty and dusty...a fair amount of tomato skin. Some dark fruit flavors, but easily superceded by dirt (though Andy K did note "ripe cherry and cedar")...a light dusting of mineral and a bit of leather. The tannins are pretty much resolved, while the acids breathe a bit of life into the wine -- that said, its best days have certainly passed.

1984 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello Vineyard, Santa Cruz -- A gorgeous Cab nose -- pencil lead, flaky minerals, fennel and cedar. "Athletic" dark fruits are still strong in the mouth, and are set against an earthy/mineral laced core. The texture is long and smooth -- tannins still firm, but very accommodating. A long finish of anise, leather and cedar. Quite simply, Classic Monte Bello (many thanks to Bree and others who have helped me forge such an opinion over the past few years!)... a gorgeous wine that has come to a peak plateau...it should hold easily for the next few years.

1986 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon, Martha's Vineyard, Napa -- a wine of great controversy, but it quickly vanished. I have no problem with the high toned mint and eucalyptus that certainly marks this wine...though there might have been a slight note of "wet timber", it was not effected by TCA. The palate is thick with black fruit, earth, and mineral...herbal character shines a bit more on the finish. The tannins are still quite strong, but there is good enough acid to give it resonance. This wine still has years ahead of it, but I'd agree with my buddy Jeff Faunce when he called it "real gooood" at present.

1974 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley -- a sniff and a tiny sip convinced me there was wisdom in letting this one "decant" in the glass for a while. Revisiting it an hour later -- it actually had some ripeness to its black cherry fruit, along with a nice mint scent...perhaps a bit dusty, too. There was much more fruit on the palate than I would have imagined -- More black cherry, with leather and earth. The tannins are still hard at work, but pleasant enough. The finish offers more mint and slightly drying black tea. Nice, in a "past peak" sort of way.

1997 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal -- I tasted this in the early going -- it was quite tight. The nose was heavy on alcohol and chlorine. In the mouth it was wrapped tight in acid and tannin. It did not do much for me in this state, but others had strong, favorable comments about it later.

1993 J.L. Chave Hermitage Rouge -- lighter colored than "typical" Chave...lighter styled as well. Dark, rich earth, olives and wood fired meat are its main features...some mineral, too. A "nice enough" sort of wine, but not nearly as good as its "bad vintage brother" the '92 often tends to be.

1998 Jamet Cote Rotie -- large amounts of back olive, shoe polish and bacon fat rise from my stem...maybe a few flowers growing up through some well placed manure, as an added feature. Initially it is very gamy/funky (yes, that's a good thing), but eventually gives more play to ripe, dense cherry flavors. The aforementioned fruit is knocked a bit of course by some thick layers of tannin and puckering acid (which all magically vanishes with a bite lamb, mmmm), but this young Cote Rotie hold lots of promise -- revisit in 3-5 years.

1999 Amity Pinot Noir, Schouter Vineyard -- bright cherry and flowers power an inviting nose. The "brightness" persists into the mouth, smoothly conveying sweet cherry, earth and herbs on a merry journey...Some late arriving "Oregon garrigue" comes with swirling. Nice acids and probably more underlying tannin than is immediately obvious forge a nice structure. The pinot turns a bit funky on the finish, but it makes it no less delicious. This was very nice...too bad it has such unattractive labeling, as it cannot help their sales.

1999 Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon, Morisoli Vineyard Reserve, Napa Valley -- initially minty, but with lots of black fruit scents....coconut, too. There is plenty of fleshy, unctuous, dark fruit in this wine, and so much so, that it (pleasantly) comes across with far less oak character than their regular bottlings. Sure, there is still chocolate, coffee, and coconut bits and pieces, but not overwhelmingly so. There are broad, friendly tannins, and a bit of acidic zip at the back end of this Cab -- decent balance. I like the wine, but at $100+, well....

1997 Fonterutoli Siepi -- when I tried this shortly after opening, I really did not like it at all -- seemed hot, and chock full of oaky character. I tried it 4 hours later (the benefit of having it an unmarked decanter, I guess ;-), and the results were much different. This ST showed off gorgeous aromatics of toasted anise seeds, Tuscan dust, flowers, and dried cherries. Lots of coarse tannins, but the purity of the black cherry fruit was not hindered. Anise flavors mingle with leather, dirt and light minerals...lots espresso on the finish. Excellent...showing no signs of immediate peril.

1990 Figeac, St. Emilion -- it had good richness, and young tasting fruit, but then turned reticent and closed except for a kiss of chocolate on the finish...not particularly aromatic. I've tried bottles that showed far better than this one...such is life.

1996 JL Chave Hermitage Rouge -- damn, it is corked (the "no doubt about it" kind). We've opened two corked 97's  in recent days...alas, now a '96....these things happen. Fortunately we could be consoled by the...

1999 J.L. Chave Hermitage Rouge -- big, dark and brooding...perhaps a bit of cigarette and tar, too. I put my pour aside (ah, the beauty of extra stems ;-) for a number of hours. It was still big and dark when I returned to it, but now a bit more awake -- flowers, bacon, and smoky/roasted meats formed a classy Rhone perfume. Strong, juicy black fruit washes across the palate, bringing along a nice mix of meat and herbs  for the ride. A fine balance of fruit to structure (though right now, the tannins still have a slight edge) speaks to its obvious aging potential. A gorgeous young wine, but far prettier to "look at", than "to talk to" at present. I hope many of are hand when these blossom in coming years.

1993 Prunotto Barbaresco Montestefano -- dusty and leathery at the out set...tomato skin...still later - roses. Dusty red fruits lifted by nice acids...sort of a sweet/syrupy molasses flavor and texture. It turns a bit hot on the finish, but brings along a good shot of espresso and gum gripping tannin as well. Interesting...

1995 Bonneau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Marie Beurrier -- as it was a very expensive/Parker appreciated  "luxury" CdP, I expected a blockbuster -- it was not. In fact surprisingly light and elegant. There were scents of dried dates and figs, along with a good dusting of spice. The medium bodied wine has somewhat candied red fruit, a bit of smoke, and some brown sugar sweetness through the finish. The structure is ample, but not obviously prodigious. If this is a reasonable sample, then it seems to be a good wine carrying a huge price tag.

1991 Voge Cornas VF -- decanted for a number of hours (it needed that and more). A nose of high toned flowers and forest...later a good assortment of tar, earth, bacon fat, and charcoal. Big black fruit sweeps across the tongue until met by a hammer of tannin -- turned back it reveals more earth, bacon, blood, and mineral notes. The acids eventually lend a racy quality to the wine, but the gum gripping tannins really close in on the finish...though some Earl Grey tea seeps through. So much better with a hunk of Old Amsterdam. A wine I really find compelling, but it cries out for food at present.

1994 Chat. Montelena Cabernet -- wow, surprisingly accesible (not the case the past few times I tried it). Scents of maple syrup, herb, and coffee. Full in the mouth -- smooth and sweet. Some tannic grip through the finish, but sharing time with mineral, tar, and creisote.

1996 Chat. Montelena Cabernet -- between the sweet fruit entry and the minty/brutally tannic finish there seems to be plenty (mostly good) going on with this wine. Interesting/quirky...needs years to soften.

1999 Guy Bernard Cote Rotie -- a pretty nose of flowers and bacon fat...very fluid/smooth in regard to texture...a good swath of black fruit and coffee...crushed violets, too. It is drinking nicely.

1997 Leonetti Cabernet -- big, dense, and thick -- though "charged" by some acids. Plenty of coffee, cream, chocolate and herbal/woody notes are all obvious on nose and palate. Neither tannins nor overt alcohol were problematic. It is what it is...strangely I like it. I tried one of these a few weeks back when it showed copious amounts of buttered popcorn...a note I did not discern in this bottle -- a good thing by my standards.

1982 Campillo Rioja Gran Riserva -- tasted this one late, so its possible it simply fell apart... but what I was left with was burnt, buttered popcorn, superimposed over very thin fruit.

1999 Monbousquet -- a nearby taster called it "hideous". It was an apt description..."machined" tasting fruit, syrupy texture, copious amounts of oak flavors and alcohol.

1963 Dow Porto -- quite tannic and alcoholic, but met with surprising fruit...long finish. I'm not a "Port guy", but this was very nice.

1970 Fonseca Porto -- Wow, extremely tannic...though lots of fruit seems to under that hard shell. I'm told it started to open sometime on Sunday...;-)

1999 Allegrini Recioto della Valpolicella Superiore -- chocolate covered raisins...cocoa powder/dust...rich, sweet and alcoholic...quite opulent.