There could be no tasting more anticipated, no gathering more appropriate, no evening more poignant than that of the first day of November, 2003.

Spearheaded by Terry Rooney and Rich Hoffman, a group of intrepid Zinfandel lovers created and conducted a "Salute to Lytton Springs" at the new Ridge tasting room built on the site of the original Lytton Springs Winery.

For those of you who may not realize, it is not easy to lure Paul Draper from his idyllic home and winery on Monte Bello Ridge, but he ventured north that evening to join us, and arrived in fine spirits. Richard and Dorinda Sherwin trekked south from Hopland to participate. John Olney had the shortest journey - down the stairs from his office.

They and some seventy or so other Lytton Springs aficionados joined together to celebrate this very special piece of ground and the extraordinary wines it has produced.

The generosity of the wine community amazes me, and this event was no different. Every attendant either purchased or brought a wine from their collection to include in the tasting. Indeed, after putting out a message on the Internet wine bulletin boards, folks I had never met offered older bottlings to include in the festivities. Having been drafted as "wine steward" for the evening, it was my pleasure to decant and sample 31 bottles from 1989 and earlier. I was amazed and delighted to find that none were cork-tainted, and while some were certainly more interesting that others, not one bottle was over the hill. Vintages back to 1978 were represented, including a rare "custom crush" Zinfandel, and a 1987 Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon - sourced from the vineyard Richard bought outside of Hopland and produced at Lytton Springs. Added to those were the "modern day" Zinfandels produced by Ridge, up to and including the current release. It was a Lytton lover's fantasy tasting.

The evening began on the crush pad with a taste of the 2001 Ridge Lytton Springs, provided by the Lytton Springs hospitality staff. Here's my note from March of 2003 - if anything, the wine has gotten better:

2001 Lytton Springs - 76% Zinfandel, 17% Petite Sirah, 7% Carignane, 14.7% alcohol - Fairly reticent aromatics, but with some swirlitude, gives up the signature aromatic profile of this wine, which features compote of blueberry, blackberry and purple & black plum. In the mouth there is no doubt that this is Lytton Springs - the flavor profile is familiar, there is good balance and structure for aging. It is certainly far from showing it's best, but I think it is the Lytton Springs of the Century (so far).

Mr. Draper then treated us to a narrative of his "discovery" of Lytton Springs and its relationship with Ridge Vineyards. Mr. Sherwin then regaled us with more tales, and his earlier recollections. Mr. Olney provided brief tours of the new winery. It was Lytton Immersion.

We then adjourned to the new tasting room, where the seeming endless array of Lytton wines were lined up on the tasting room bar - a bar faced with staves from the tanks that Richard Sherwin had contracted, stained with some of the very wines we were tasting. Attendees brought nibbleybits as well - all matched well with the wines.

I simply couldn't bring myself to take notes.

The evening went by far too quickly, and we needed to allow the hospitality staff to get home at a decent hour, so we closed the event in time for folks to get to dinner.

As George Heritier would say: "I have a reputation to live down to", so I'll try not to get too maudlin here, but this was one extraordinary evening. To taste this fabulous retrospective of wines from a single source; to see Richard Sherwin and Paul Draper renew their friendship after so many years; to witness the rededication and commitment to this unique piece of ground - these are wine memories that I will always carry with me.

I am very thankful to have been there.

More Thanks...

To Richard and Dorinda Sherwin - for their friendship, their generosity, and more than anything, for Richard's devoted stewardship of these fine old vines.

To Paul Draper - for his dedication to single vineyard Zinfandel and for contributing his presence to our evening event.

To John Olney - for his interest and participation in the preparation of this story.

To the Healdsburg Historical Society and Holly Hoods, their research curator, for her assistance with my search.

To Frank and Joyce Ortega - for being such gracious hosts for our retrospective dinner.

To Terry Rooney and Rich Hoffman - for organizing and executing the "Salute" event.

To Matthew Cooper, Bruce Leiserowitz and Mark Meyer for sending older Lytton Springs bottlings to me for a tasting they would not be attending. I am constantly amazed at the generousity of this community.

To Michael Perry, Christina Donley and the rest of the Lytton Springs hospitality staff - for helping us create a flawless evening with a lifetime of memories.

A Final Word

How fortunate to have this vineyard owned and tended by folks who understand its worth.

How fortuitous to be present at this unique convergence of winemakers and their efforts.

How remarkable it is to be able to look forward to more wonders from this extraordinary piece of land.

For all this, and even more that I've not told you about, I am more grateful than I could ever express.

califusa
Left Coast Correspondent for the Gang of Pour

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