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By George Heritier Relaxin' in Cambria Instead of renting motel rooms, we opted to stay together as a Gang. Mark Overberg located a house in the town of Cambria 1&1/2 blocks from the ocean and about 30 miles from Paso Robles; it was a well-furnished modern ranch that comfortably accommodated Mark and Teresa, their two daughters Gabrielle and Olivia, Mark’s mother Denise, Bree, Kim and this reporter. Here we were able to retreat from the heat and wine, dine and unwind, before returning to the fray. One
particularly distinctive aspect of the place was the “sound system,”
which featured an 8-track tape player, along with dozens of tapes.
There were many of our favorite artists featured, including Jim
Nabors (singing such
hits as “Tie a Yellow Ribbon ‘Round the Old Oak Tree”),
We
arrived at Cambria House at about 4 on Thursday, the 15th, to steady
ourselves before Rhône-N-Bowl. Mark
greeted us with a glass of bubbly. 1985
Heidsieck & Monopole Diamant Bleu Champagne,
12.5 % alc.: This old friend is doing quite nicely, and was a bargain at
$30 when the ‘deauxnut and I both found it a few years ago. Pale
straw with yeast/smoke/green apple character and a big spritz, it was
the perfect start to our stay in the Rhône-zone. 1998
Peter Michael ‘L’ Apres-Midi,
14.1 % alc.: This medium straw is a very interesting Sauvignon Blanc,
with a rather different character than most from California, or anywhere
else for that matter. It shows flavors and aromas of peaches/lemon
zest/sweaty armpit that are quite enjoyable. Bree
commented that
it seems to have undergone at least some malolactic fermentation, “the
acids are so soft.” It has a nice long finish, and reminded me
somewhat of the
Mondavi To-Kalon
Sauvignon. 1995
Paradigm Napa Cabernet Sauvignon,
13.1 % alc.: This dark garnet is one of Mark’s favorites, especially
for the $40 price tag. It has a pretty cassis/blackberry/chocolate
nose along with big fruit flavors that echo and a silky texture.
No secondary nuances here, just pure beautiful fruit. 1985 Carmenet Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, 87 % Cab. Sauv., 8 % Merlot, 5 % Cab. Franc., 12.9 % alc.: You can always count on Bree to pull something from his cellar with some age on it, and this rusty dark garnet was a perfect example. It shows a slightly musty bouquet of cassis/blackberry shaded with hints of cedar and cigar; the latter two elements are accentuated on the palate. Mark noted earth and leather, and added that it has “a little bit of pucker.” A very nice, fully mature California Claret; both reds went well with grilled steaks. We had every
good intention of attending the Brad Harrington Offline at Villa Creek,
scheduled for 10 PM on Friday, to commence after the Winemakers’
Dinner. However, after Billy Bree Bob’s killer tuna-ka-Bobs and
a succession of wonderfully mature reds, we found ourselves entrenched
around the dining room table, enjoying some scintillating conversation
and the sounds of Burl
Ives on the 8-track. 1985
Ridge Monte Bello,
13.1 % alc.:
Bree
brought this along, and it is drinking beautifully.
Dark garnet with little brick, cigar box/tobacco dominates the bouquet
these days, with cassis/plum/lead pencil/Draper perfume undertones.
Bree
had a point when he commented, “The nose belies the youth of the
fruit on the palate,” as the cigar does indeed take a backseat to the
fruit with just a hint of cedar, a smooth mouthfeel and tannins mostly
resolved. Denise
cooed, “It’s smooth and velvety; it goes down
like silk!” 1986
Dominus: Not to be
outdone, the ‘deauuxnut opened this beauty. Dark garnet with
nary a hint of brick, it’s showing cassis/soft leather and a little
funk on the nose; Denise commented that it is earthier than the Monte
Bello. It features lovely dense cassis/plum fruit, along with
cigar notes that are less pronounced than the Ridge. Bree remarked
that “it has a richness and a weight to it,” while I noted that it
isn’t as herbal as the one we all tasted last summer. Just a
marvelous comparison with the Monte Bello, and it caused Bree to up his
ante with the next selection. 1987
Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard,
13.5 % alc.: With his first whiff of this, Bree said “it has that
signature funk that needs to blow off; Martha my dear!” It’s a
dark garnet without much rust, and deep cassis/plum/dark berry fruit
shaded by a little of the funk Bree mentioned. There is some
eucalyptus as well, but it only hints at cedar or cigar right now.
Mark remarked on its “mintyness and warm fruit.” This
beautiful wine was a big hit, as you might imagine, completing a
marvelous trio of California Cabernets, but Bree wasn’t done with us
yet! 1990
Ridge Lytton Springs,
80 % Zinfandel, 10 % Petite Sirah, 6 % Carignane, 4 % Grenache, 13.8 %
alc., 1.5L: “Oh man, it’s perfect!” – Bree. “This is
wonderful!” – Kim. Dark garnet with sweet rich ripe fruit in
the whole Zinberry spectrum, including raspberry/blackberry/black
raspberry and fully resolved tannins. Perfectly balanced, it
transcends mere Zinfandel. Yet another example that this varietal
doesn’t age, but strangely, Mark wasn’t wild about it, saying,
“It’s OK, but it’s a Zin…” It
seems only right to me that I should include notes on a wine that Bree
opened for us the night before we drove to Paso Robles, since it
continues with the theme of this page, and one that runs throughout the
whole Gang of Pour site.
Off to Henry and Lauren Harris' home on the Sunday ride home.
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Hawaiian
Paradise, Burt
Bacharach, early Jackson
5, Montovani,
and 1001 Strings Play
Montovani, to name a
few. There were also some worthwhile offerings from Nat
“King” Cole and Sinatra,
but a Segovia
tape that might have been truly memorable was all but unplayable, due to
the fact that the tracks had bled together over time, and only one of
the speakers seemed to work. Still, this all provided a rather
wacky ambience to the whole situation, one that the Gang of Pour is
right at home with. 
It
should be mentioned that it was a special pleasure meeting and spending
time with Denise
(left), who was along not only to help with the children, but also to join in
the festivities. She not only sipped and enjoyed some very
wonderful wines with us, but had some very astute observations in their
regard as well. An absolutely charming woman, we made her an 
