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Wines Reviewed In This Article NV Cuvee Tradition
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Philipponnat |
Veuve Clicquot | Vilmart |
Jacquesson | Ruinart |
Goutorbe Part 1
After finishing off our
nightcaps with Rene Goutorbe, I
packed up the remains of the 1993 Vilmart Couer de Cuvee and we made our
way up to our room to try and forget the nightmare of a dinner we had just had (read
all about it here). Once settled in our room, my wife Michelle and I had
one final glass of the Vilmart before officially calling it a night.
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Cheers! Brad Baker
Philipponnat |
Veuve Clicquot | Vilmart |
Jacquesson | Ruinart |
Goutorbe Part 1 BACK TO BRAD BAKER'S INDEX PAGE February 2008 © Brad Baker
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Upon
rising in the morning, we checked out of the Goutorbe’s hotel
Castel Jeanson and made our way to their winery
for a tasting and tour. One of my favorite things about Castel Jeanson is that
it is right in the middle of the village of Ay and is within walking distance of
just about anywhere you would want to go in the village (Champagne producers,
restaurants, and other points of interest). 
As
for the history of the family, the Goutorbes can trace their Champagne roots
back to Emile Goutorbe and the aftermath of
World War I. Emile was the vineyard director at
Perrier-Jouet and began studying the art of vine nursery (or vine
grafting) on the side. After a few years, he left Perrier-Jouet and established
Goutorbe as a nursery (Les Pepinieres Viticoles
Goutorbe). They quickly became a leading supplier of grafted vines
and Emile and his son Henri got interested
in having their own vineyard. Within a few years, they added one and began
producing Champagne after World War II. This was the starting point for Henri
Goutorbe, the Champagne brand.
Even
with a vineyard and Champagne production, the nursery was the main business and
moneymaker. Champagne production remained a hobby until Henri’s son
Rene (right with
Brad Baker) joined on in 1970. Rene saw the potential in growing and
selling Champagne and went to work learning all he could. He spent a great
amount of time figuring out what grapes to grow where and how to best care for
each vineyard plot. Over the next decade, Rene’s hard work and dedication to
quality began to pay off. Their Champagnes slowly started to gain a good
reputation and before the Goutorbes knew it, they had a popular Champagne on
their hands to complement their nursery business. And now, of course, in
addition to the Champagne and nursery, they have also added on the historic
hotel Castel Jeanson to the family holdings. When it comes to the families of
Ay, the Goutorbes are as well known as any.
The
entire Goutorbe family is involved in the businesses. Rene and Nicole lead the
way, but Rene’s father Henri still gets involved when he sees fit and their
daughter Elisabeth is getting more and more involved every day. What strikes me
about the family and their business triumvirate is that no one business seems to
get more attention than the other and all are run with a dedication to quality
and customer service. The facilities of all three are located close together and
it isn’t out of the ordinary to see a family member running back and forth
between two or three of them. I am convinced that if you do business with the
Goutorbes, you will get not only an excellent product, but top notch service.
(Goutorbe garden at left)
The
Goutorbe style can be summed up as: full bodied, concentrated fruit, very
expressive, and a bit racy, or alternative to what many traditionally associate
with Champagne. These are wines that are well suited to the dinner table. While
these wines currently fly under the radar, I would advise you keep a look out
for them especially the Special Club bottlings and the NV Blanc de
Blancs. Also, I must add that without regard to the wines, what I cherish
the most from my visit is the time spent with Rene and Nicole. They are two of
the most wonderful people I met during my time in France. We had a great time
with both and I only wish we could have spent a longer time with them. A nicer
couple you will not meet. Language knows no barriers. 
Goutorbe Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru NV 
Goutorbe
Millesime Grand Cru 2001
