Bastardo

By George Heritier




 

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Chehalem Willamette Chardonnay Inoxe have fond memories of our visit with Harry Peterson-Nedry at Chehalem in Oregon's Willamette Valley five or so years ago, so when Estate Wine and Spirits sales representative Samantha Cushman invited me to taste through eight of their current offerings at a luncheon with her and Sophie Daniels, Chehalem National Sales Manager, I didn't hesitate to accept. We met at the excellent Asian fusion restaurant, Mon Jin Lau, in Troy, Michigan, and were joined by Mon Jin Lau owner Marshall Chin, Estate Wine and Spirits personality Joe Bruno and Ed Bosse, owner of the Ferndale and Birmingham Simply Wine retail outlets. Chehalem does more than just Pinot Noir, so Sophie started us off with four white selections.

2004 Chehalem Willamette Chardonnay Inox, $17.99 - 19.99, 14% alc.: 100% Dijon clone Chardonnay, and the newest wine from Chehalem, now in its 3rd vintage; Inox is taken from the abbreviation of the French word for stainless steel, inoxidable, alluding to the fact that this wine sees only stainless steel tank, and no barrel, with no malolactic fermentation and no residual sugar. Medium straw, with green apple - pear flavors and aromas, accented with a hint of minerality; medium full bodied, rich and round, with good acidity and a decent finish, and if it's not terribly complex, it's nice enough for what's in the bottle, not to mention the price. A good choice for those who want a new world Chardonnay at a decent price without the oak, and works well with some delicious shrimp and Asian vegetable egg rolls dipped in a plum mustard sauce.
 

Chehalem Willamette Pinot Gris2004 Chehalem Willamette Pinot Gris, $19.99, 14.7% alc.: Pale to medium straw in color, with a white peach, green apple and grapefruit personality, and more than a hint of jalapeno on the nose. Easily the richest of the four whites tasted here, and my favorite of the bunch, it shows excellent intensity (from aggressive crop thinning) and varietal character on a medium full bodied frame, with good acidity and a nice finish. From Chehalem's three Estate Vineyards: Ridgecrest, Stoller and Corral Creek, planted on three different soil types. A good match for Crab Rangoon (crabmeat, cream cheese, Chinese pastry plum-mustard sauce) and Spicy Chicken.

2004 Chehalem Willamette Dry Riesling, $24.99, 13.9% alc.: I was in the minority regarding this medium straw colored Riesling, finding it lacking in intensity and expression on both the nose and palate; the green apple - peach flavors are pleasant enough in the mouth, but the nose is rather stingy. Others found it more to their liking, but I'd have a hard time recommending it at the price listed; still, it's not bad with sushi. From selected lots from Chehalem's Corral Creek and Stoller Vineyards; tank fermented.

2002 Chehalem Willamette Chardonnay, $22.99, 13.9% alc.: Medium straw, with a tinge of lime; not giving much on the nose, but shows a nice kiss of toasty oak over pleasant apple - pear character. Good balance, with medium intensity and just the right amount of acidity. Sophie describes this as "a baby Ian's Reserve," showing similar characteristics to Chehalem's flagship Chardonnay. 100% Dijon clone fruit from Stoller Vineyards (60%) and Corral Creek plantings (40%), fermented in French oak, 28% new oak, 30% 1 year, 42% two year+ barrels; left on lees without racking.

Chehalem Willamette Cerise2002 Chehalem Willamette Cerise, 80% Gamay Noir, 20% Pinot Noir, $19.99 - 21.99, 14.7% alc.: Cerise means "cherry" in French, and this ruby dark garnet gives a kiss of sweet oak over, what else? Cherries! The exceptional vintage has given this structure and substance, nice balance and pretty aromatics. Pairs well with an Asian osso buco. From Chehalem's Ridgecrest Vineyard, 11 months in barrel.

2002 Chehalem Willamette Pinot Noir 3 Vineyard, $29.99, 13.9% alc.: Blended with fruit sourced from Chehalem's three Estate vineyards, this ruby dark garnet gives a kiss of sweet oak over smoky black cherry, spice and earth on a medium to medium full bodied frame. Ready to drink, this is a good Pinot Noir that goes well with the spicy chicken, but I'd like it better at around $5-8 less. As with the other Chehalem Pinot Noirs, no young vine fruit goes into this wine. 10 months in 22% new, 26% 1 year's and 52% multiple prior use French oak barrels.

2002 Chehalem Dundee Hills Pinot Noir Stoller Vineyard, $42.99, 13.9% alc.: Ruby dark garnet, with a red fruit, black cherry, plum, baking spice, cardamom, clove and cinnamon profile, all set off with a judicious kiss of oak. Very smooth, with an expressive personality on a medium to medium full bodied frame. The best of the reds for my tastes, with more concentration and intensity than even the Rion Reserve. 11 months in barrel, with one racking, in 40% new French oak barrels, 75% new and 1 year prior use; selected barrels from five fermentation lots, 88% Dijon clones, 12% Pommard, and 100% high density fruit. (Chehalem's 1989-90 plantings were double the density of their original 1982 plantings, and 2003's were almost triple.)

2001 Chehalem Willamette Pinot Noir Rion Reserve, $55.99, 13.8% alc.: Made from selected barrels sourced from Ridgecrest Vineyard, this ruby dark garnet follows through with the clearly discernable "house" style of Chehalem, but it isn't showing as much as the '02 Stoller at this point, with a kiss of sweet oak over straightforward smoky black cherry. Medium + body, and very well balanced, but I'd like a little more heft here, and it's downright overpriced for what's in the bottle. Aged for 11 months in French oak, 39% new, 70% new or once-used barrels; 58% from the 5-acre block planted in 1982, 2/3 Pommard and 1/3 Wadenswil clones; 42% from the Babies block (6% Wadenswil and 36% Pommard) planted in 1989/90.

Obviously, I had my favorites in this lineup, but in fact, nothing sucked. The wines are well made and food friendly, which is as it ought to be. Sophie Daniels gave a lively and most informative presentation, and of course, the food is always great at Mon Jin Lau. Add to that a couple of jokers like Joe and Ed and you have all the ingredients for a very enjoyable couple of hours on a beautiful summer's afternoon.

Reporting from Day-twah,

Bastardo


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© George Heritier September 2005