1993 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino -- This initially struck me as slightly oxidized...good bits of iron/rust, herbs and mud too. It was full in the mouth with tobacco and black fruit when sipped, but it was soon overcome by drying tannins. "Long in the tooth Sangiovese" was my initial read. When revisiting this a few hours later, it certainly had more charm. Floral scents mingled amidst the sun baked earth (much more appealing than "mud"). Dried cherry fruit and blood formed a better balance against the tannins. It was pleasant and appealing, though if this bottle is typical, it is one to drink sooner rather than later. Find this wine

 

1982 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto -- There were elements of spice, earth and iron in the nose. The first sip showed nice soft textures, and a good dollop structure trumping some receding fruit... the alcohol seemed a little too exposed in the finish. An hour or more helped this wine as well -- the nose adding some pretty rose petals and the palate seemed better integrated from front to back. Tobacco and green tea flavors marked the finish, while that perception of alcohol seemed to vanish. I guessed this one to be Nebbiolo...maybe a 92 or 94 Barolo? Find this wine

 

1997 Quintarelli Valpolicella -- This one smelled warm and ripe, with bits of anise and chocolate floating from the glass. The nose had me thinking Veneto from the start. Some complained of a turpentine quality to the nose, but it did not register as such for me. The wine featured dark, ripe fruit in the mouth, accented by the same herbal/chocolate combo found aromatically. It was tannic but beyond that crunch, the palate still seemed tightly coiled. Time may well be on its side, but even after a few hours, the wine never seemed truly expressive. Find this wine

1997 Casa Emma Soloio -- The fragrances spoke to the wine's richness, offering up brown sugar, sweet vanilla and various cake spices. Loren noted some rosemary, which induced a nod from me. The wine was rich, dense and full in the mouth. Fresh clipped herbs (rosemary and sage) tempered some of the dark fruit sweetness, as did the chewy tannins. The acids were just enough to notice. It offered a smoothly textured finish, accented by tobacco and black licorice. I thought this was perhaps a Cabernet based Super Tuscan, and was somewhat surprised to learn it was all Merlot. It was an easily enjoyed wine, but nothing that will stir your soul. Find this wine

1991 Quintarelli Valpolicella -- This was my bottle, so there was no doubt to its identity -- but after having a few other bottles previously, this did strike me very differently than the others. It was if someone had ripped a fresh, crunchy bell pepper in half and then held it beneath my nose. This fresh produce character would remain throughout the night, and where I initially found it very strange, it was not especially off putting to me, though preferences varied around the table. In addition to the fresh from the garden fragrances, Eric noted a smoke/campfire quality. I later noticed hints of dust and leather. The elegant textures of the wine were quite impressive, as was the bottle sweetness balanced against the sunny acids and gentle tannins. Still, one must contend with the green pepper undercurrents -- not at all dominating the flavors, but certainly present. This was a wine I could have loved (and have in the past), but on this night it was more of an interesting curiosity.
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1997 Stignano (San Vincente) -- I liked the nose with its fresh hay, dark earth and black cherry scents... later adding more floral tones. It offered a big swath of dark fruit flavor, but this was hastily dispatched by an invasion of tannin. Cherries and plums, along with tar, iron and earth, push back and eventually form a pleasant, round center. I imagined this to be another Super Tuscan with perhaps more Sangiovese than Cabernet, but I'll admit to wavering a bit against the table's near universal belief it was a young Barolo. I was nearly swayed by "group think," while saying it would not speak well for Barolo and any sense of distinctiveness. All that said, the Stignano (which I'm told is a Sangiovese and Merlot blend) drank young, and seemed early in its evolution. It has upside.
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1996 Serafini & Vidotto Rosso dell ‘Abazia -- It had a bouquet of toasting spices along with light tobacco and vanilla... later seeming sweeter and more effusive -- something akin to Chai. It was medium bodied, and the warm red fruit spins a delicate thread with Indian spice and perhaps tarragon. The textures are supple and the synergy of tannin and acid was delivered in harmonious fashion. The wood peaks out in the center just enough to be noticed... the same can be said about wood in the long herb crusted finish. This Cab/Cab Franc blend from Veneto was a "Three Glass" winner from Gambero Rosso and had been in my cellar for a number of years. I really had no idea what to expect. I found it pleasant, yet not especially captivating. I'd be inclined to drink this bottling soon, as the oak is in position to push past the fruit and other nuance. Find this wine

1993 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo -- Loren went down to cellar to add this later in the evening. It offered some bretty funk that had Tom smiling and Eric scrambling for diaper descriptions. I did not find the nose at all problematic, beyond a sulfurous stink that moved off quickly. When sipped, it had a light effervescence from likely trapped CO 2, but this too quickly passed -- not that it was ever a real problem. I heard Roland call the "amazingly sweet."  I would stop somewhere short of that, but ripeness in the raspberry fruit was certainly present. This was a big, mouth filling wine, but in addition it offered such nice accents with its black pepper, leather, and mineral laced finish. For being late in the evening I was very enthused about this wine, as it had the total package of materials, interesting elements, and the ever elusive soul. I had no good guess as to what it might be, so I went with "some exotic Syrah blend," in deference to the pepper. I need to try more of these exciting Emidio Pepe wines -- this one seeming amazingly unmoved by the years in bottle. Find this wine

2000 Salvoni Brunello di Montalcino -- It was sweet, polished, and relatively balanced, but not at all exciting at this point. The tannins certainly took a good grip, but it was hard for me to sense any real character in the wine. I was inclined to guess "Super Tuscan" yet again, thinking this one had a good jolt of Cabernet fueling that herbal finish. Find this wine

1985 Pasolini Villa Montericco Passito di Uve Albana VdT --
I had this half bottle in the cellar for a few years... it was a gift, and I (again) had no idea what to expect. It had green and orange hues, and seemed murky in its appearance. Some compared it to sherry for its lightly oxidized nature -- I'm down with that comparison. It was sweet and ripe (raisin), but especially long or dense. I found it interesting, but nothing I'd ever seek out again. Find this wine

It was a nice evening of wine and conversation, though I'm not sure I enjoyed this blind format for this assortment of wines -- especially using only one glass. I found it difficult to keep track of everything moving back and forth from one bag to another, but I muddled through. Other than the late arriving Pepe, I found none of the wines truly captivating, but most others had their positive attributes. Our next gathering will perhaps involve less bags and the boxed set of "Land of the Lost" DVD's.

LM