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According to Mick Unti, Dry Creek Valley’s
climate is ideal for growing classic Mediterranean red grape varieties such as
Barbera, Grenache, Sangiovese and Syrah. Mick also makes some killer Zinfandel
that alone, is worth the drive to Dry Creek.
Unti
Vineyards is a small rustic winery set in the
bucolic hills of this heavenly part of Sonoma. Wines at Unti are made by
employing long pre-fermentation maceration, using open top tanks, a basket
press, and nothing but French oak. As my car was the only one on the lot and
Mick Unti was the sole employee on site, I was able to listen to Mick’s valued
commentary on the few wines not sold out at the winery.
 Unti Grenache Dry Creek Valley 2004 $26.00
A blend of 77% Grenache (the primary component of this blend comes from a 2.9
acre block, planted to three clones of Grenache Noir) with 16% Syrah and 7% Mourvedre. After a five day cold-soak, the fermentation began with indigenous
yeast. The results show a wave of rich raspberry fruit along with liquorish
root, dark blackcurrant, thyme and tar. Its texture is pure silk. There is no
overbearing tannin to upset the flow of pure delight. I am sure this will age
and further develop, but it will be tough to hold onto it for long.
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Unti Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2003 $24.00
This Zinfandel comes from three separate blocks, planted to different clones,
all of which are on the Unti estate, the “old clone” block planted in 1994, the
28 year-old head-pruned block, and the new Primitivo-clone vineyard planted next
to the winery. Sixty percent of this vintage came from the Primitivo-clone
vineyard. It is heady and full of plum, black fruit, sweet perfume and
couverture chocolate. There is 17% Petite Syrah and 3% Barbera to give the wine
some structure and depth.
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Unti Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2004 $24.00
This recently bottled rendition shows more body and structure than the previous
vintage. It is jammy, full of black fruit coulis with just a kiss of sweet milk
chocolate. 20% of this wine is Petite Syrah that gives it its backbone.
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Unti Syrah Dry Creek Valley 2003 $24.00
Fruit was harvested between September 22nd and October 2nd, with sugars ranging
from 25.5 to 26 degrees brix. Mick says picking Syrah at this stage of
physiological ripeness results in added aromatics and flavours. It also helps to
avoid green tannins that can occur at lower stages of ripeness. It has a purple
inky robe with lots of toasty, olive, floral, lavender and black fruit aromas.
The palate is refined and shows skilful balance by finishing with the perfect
amount of black fruit acidity.
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 Unti Grenache Dry Creek Valley 2005
Barrel Sample
This shows a youthful Southern Rhone style character, full of tar, wild game,
liquorish, forest floor and pepper. It is dense, creamy and well structured.
Unti Syrah Benchland Dry Creek Valley 2003 $35.00
This Syrah comes from a tiny section from the estate's 6-acre vineyard located on
the eastside of Dry Creek Bench. The vines are much less vigorous, due to the
well-drained soils, and yield smaller grapes with more concentrated flavours. A
typical yield in this part of the vineyard is about two and a half kilos per
vine. (Ok, that’s just shy of six pounds for my American friends). This is 100%
Syrah of which 40% sees new French oak. It is floral, aromatic and cedary. The
fruit is intense; it is chewy, and full of black fruit essence and stunningly
balanced. Smoked meat flavours run across the palate competing with blueberry,
lavender and sage. It is however, quite tannic and it will truly benefit from
some age in the bottle.
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Reporting from the valley,
CZ
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