arrived at Bacco Ristorante, that most excellent of Italian dining establishments on Northwestern Highway in Southfield, Michigan, with only the faintest idea of what I was in for. I'd received an invitation from Elite Brands Gerry Hammerschmidt to attend a luncheon featuring the wines of Tenuta Vitanza; I'd been told that winemaker Guido Andretta would be in attendance, so imagine my surprise when upon arriving, a lovely lady handed me a glass of wine and immediately started to describe the vinification techniques she used and the meaning behind the name of that particular selection.

It didn't take long to figure out that in fact, it is Rosalba Vitanza (right) who is actually the winemaker, and Guido, an aerospace engineer, is her husband. As he likes to tell anyone who'll listen, "If you don't like the wines, blame her, not me!" Happily, such is never the case, as they all acquitted themselves admirably.

Vitanza's first vintage was 1995, and since that time, the Montalcino producer has grown steadily, with 30 hectares now under production, and has been turning out traditionally styled wines that have been critically well received. (They also operate Fattoria Vitae, selecting and distributing limited lots of Chianti Colli Senesi, Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino with importer Fran Kysela.) Guido (left) is rather reserved in manner, seemingly almost bemused by the necessity of going on the road to promote their product, but Rosalba has no such reservations. Her passion for her wines is immediately apparent, and she is only too happy to expound at length about their makeup and method of production, sometimes stopping briefly to inquire of her husband as to a specific word or phrase in English. The wines themselves are quite delicious, so her enthusiasm is perfectly understandable.

After handing me that first glass of wine, Rosalba explained, "The name of this wine comes from a family joke. I tell people that my husband Guido is not tremendous, he is quadremendous!" And thus comes the name for Vitanza's proprietary Super Tuscan blend.

2002 Tenuta Vitanza Quadrimendo IGT, $31, 60% Sangiovese, 40% Merlot, 13% alc.: A deep, dark garnet in color, this shows equally deep and dark black fruit characteristics on the nose and the palate, with plenty of very smooth and very dry black currant and blackberry, accented by understated notes of licorice, earth, and with extended air, coffee and chocolate. Rosalba takes pains to choose small Sangiovese grapes with thick skins for this blend, describing them as similar to the Merlot grapes in that regard. Medium full bodied, with a nice density and balance, this soaked long on the dregs of the pressed grapes before spending twelve months in small French oak barriques, then another six months in bottle before release. It shows only the subtlest influence of the oak, and could hardly be described as "international" in style, which is fine with me. Very nice now, but with its silky tannins and ample acidity, this will surely improve for at least the next few years.

Not long after I arrived, we were seated for lunch, and I had the pleasure of sitting between that Wine Rackafratz himself, Elite's own R.J. Tibus and Mark Didzik of the Napa Market in Commerce Township.

1999 Tenuta Vitanza Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, $64, 13.5% alc.:

1998 Tenuta Vitanza Brunello di Montalcino Reserva DOCG, $125, 13.5% alc.: