Larry Meehan's Ruminations


Intro  |  Friday  |  Saturday  |  Larry's TNs  |  Aftertaste

A few wines from the cocktail hour -- just about everyone had arrived except for the wayward Nashville contingent. They feigned being lost, but in reality they were just searching for suitable Vodka for our favorite "wine with dinner only" diva, Trinka. 

1999 Brundlmayer Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling -- light and fresh...quite nice. Fuzzy peach and "cold mountain stream" are featured in the nose...more of the same in the mouth, along with appealing tangerine and snappy spice at the close. Recently viewed for $15 -- worth it.

2002 Francois Chidaine Clos Habert Montlouis Sur Loire -- it has an odd orange to copper tint for such a young Chenin. It is a tight, hard wine -- straining to be free. Tart apple, iron, stone, and spice are all churning against spunky acidity. It is an odd, cool wine -- I like it. 

2002 Wyncroft Gewurtztraminer (Michigan) -- smells like Gewurtz -- lychee, lots of flowers and spice. It seems a bit shy on the palate at present and finishes with noticeable warmth. 

2002 Wyncroft Riesling (Michigan) -- It shows plenty of up front petrol and wet slate in the nose...it is "wide bodied"...broad palate presence -- full with apple, cinnamon and plenty of mineral. The acids are easy...pleasant sipper on its own. 

NV Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle  La Cuvee -- Apples, lemons (zest, too), bread dough, nice spice and stone...It has potent bubbles, and fine acidity to balance the larger frame. Excellent! 

1990 Pol Roger Brut "Chardonnay" -- Chard with bubbles -- what a concept! This is a bottling I've always liked, and Chairman Moe was kind enough to bring his last bottle to share. I think it was a good move to pop this now as it was seeming a little more tired than before...less flesh and more rust. That said, it was an enjoyable diversion.

Off to the lobby we went, where we'd mostly remain over the next two days. 

1986 Chave Hermitage -- the first red I tried, and I liked it a great deal. It had a nose long on dark earth, Gyro meat, cedar and smoke. It is on light side of body for Chave, but still has bottle sweet black fruit, cool minerals, and a long spicy finish. Tannins are smooth -- ready to drink... 

1990 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva "Gold Label" (From Magnum) -- this is a magnum I've been holding for quite some time...just after pulling the cork, it seemed typical CC -- dried cherries, slightly earthy, a touch of iron , and decent textures -- ehh? With more than half the bottle still remaining a few hours later, it had progressed very nicely -- adding depth and brightness to the aforementioned "typicity"...the textures more supple and the finish long with spice and blood. It would have been delicious with the lamb, but our merry band still managed to finish it off even without the meat. 

1995 Jamet Cote Rotie -- It has attractive notes of violet, peach skin and fine, rich earth...white pepper and meat with time. It is wet and somewhat juicy at the first sip -- lots of black fruit and bacon...plentiful spice. The tannins clamp down hard toward the close. It is still young and a bit reserved...not nearly as complete as the bottle we had last year, but that said, it was very appealing, and a wine I'd love to drink any time.

1996 Chave Hermitage -- it was young, boisterous and as fruit sweet as any Chave I can recall...fine richness up front, but it is certainly dominated by structure from the middle through the finish. It is appealing, even if slightly closed. 

1985 Fonsalette CdR Reserve -- I've sampled a number of vintages of this wine, often feeling it had too much richness, and lacked balance for my tastes, but 20 years has done this bottle right. It has the trade marked "chocolate cherry" scent and flavor working, but it never seems like "too much." The proportions of this wine are excellent. Though the tannins are rolling back rapidly, they still lend a hand in keeping this together. I'm impressed. Mary said "the chocolate sort of melts in my mouth"...while John Blackwood noted, "I'm amazed this is "just" a Cotes du Rhone.” 

1990 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses -- all that anyone wanted to talk about was the pungent herbal presence in this wine, and it was quite the field blend -- tarragon, basil, thyme, lemon grass, and I'm sure some others too. Mark H summed it up by saying "It is too herbal for its own good."  It had a high-toned nose (perhaps a little nail polish/VA) that only accentuated the green stuff...but beyond all that, it has some fruit working, and a good dose of rock. If nothing else, it was quite the conversation piece. 

1998 Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo -- I've sampled this wine on a number of occasions, and this one seemed strangely advanced. It is certainly youthful and rich, but the tightly knit tannins are nowhere to be found. Perhaps just a strange place in its development, but it is a pretty enjoyable wine. 

1975 Chateau Lafite -- "Holy Cow" cried Kim... perhaps referencing the tannic astringency of the wine. In fact I'd say that the tannins were so "all enveloping" that it made a number of folks cry "corked." There was plenty of menthol in the nose...light herbs, and tobacco. There are still black fruit, petrol and cedar tones, but the fierce tannins and the potent iron note in the finish superseded them all. I'd not call this a pleasant wine, but certainly an interesting one. 

1990 Chateau Cruzeau Pessac-Leognan -- just a drive by taste of this wine, but it was nicely structured and delicious. 

2000 Aquila Sangiovese (Sean Thackrey) Eaglepoint Ranch -- it is amazing how many varietals seem to come out of Eaglepoint in Mendocino...perhaps Nebbiolo next? The nose features a dusting of cocoa, lavender and thyme, but it is largely dominated by pungent oregano and the trademark Thackrey eucalyptus. Wet and juicy (grapey) throughout, but with all the herbal tones, and lingering oak "nuance" at work, it was hard for me to catch any Sangio character. 

1995 Deloach OFS Zinfandel -- A look at the label and its 16.5 alcohol made me shudder a bit -- but I gave it a whirl. What a nice surprise -- good raspberry fruit, peppery spice and leafy tobacco leave a pleasant impression. Nothing is too big, too hot, or out of sorts -- bravo. It had an interesting quality at the finish, where it seemed as if a large amount of dry extract latched on to my palate...though not bitter or obtrusive. It was suggested that a flourless chocolate cake might make a perfect match here -- I'd have to agree. 

1998 Allemand Cornas Chaillots -- it smelled and tasted like Allemand, and that is a good thing. There is a good dose of animal and fur...meat and the requisite granite. The black fruit is big and juicy, nicely propelled by glistening acids -- I love these wines. The Chaillots always seems more pliable than the heartier Reynard, but there is no danger of this going over the hill any time soon. Mark H suggested that the flavor profile closely resembled that of Cayeuse Syrah...I'll be interested to try some of those. 

1995 JL Colombo Cornas "Les Ruchets" -- Bleecch! Your mileage may vary, but this was pretty nasty oak juice. 

1983 Bertani Amarone – high-toned flowers, high-pitched vinyl and/or some semi piercing VA...beyond that some scents of hay and dark chocolate. This is not especially ripe, and seeming dried out...finishes a bit warm...I imagine this has had better days. 

2000 Alban Grenache -- as has been my recent experience with the Alban grenache -- this too is incredibly reduced...ode to burning tire, and sulfur. It is deep and dark...mightily extracted, but pretty ugly at this point. A certain Columbus attorney tells me these will come around at some point, so I look forward to seeing that day come. 

1999 Guilhem Gaucelm Ermitage du Pic St. Loup -- this is very fresh smelling -- a big, lavender heavy garrigue. At one point, I think I called it the "finest sort of laundry detergent" -- yes indeed. It still seems young, and even a little tight...chock full of bacon, crunchy toast and blackberry jam (I believe my buddy geo t would call this a "breakfast wine"). Good stuff...

1998 Belle Pente Estate Reserve Pinot Noir -- I became a bit confused while sampling this wine as Trinka was distracting me with statements about John's head being the "biggest", but also the "best"...it turns out it was all about last year's Toledo T-shirt featuring many swirling domes. Refocusing on the wine, it was pretty big and upfront -- delivering lots of concentrated black fruit, coffee and a big dose of spicy oak. The tannins are still pretty potent, but smooth... nice if you like your Pinot on the bolder side. Always looking for something nice to say, Bill Paumen stated -- "I really like the label." 

2000 JJ Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese **** Auction -- an interesting nose of tangy apple and citrus...clean mineral scents, along with warmed brown sugar. Pure tangerine flavors and intense spice...honey sweetness is softly, but deftly wiped by the acids...all brought home with a good dose of slate. It was very clean and very transparent. Mark Criden summed it up nicely -- "an intense wine from a mediocre vintage.” 

1997 Pierre Soulez Savennieres Clos du Papillion Moelleux – Mr. Blackwood gave it a sniff and offered -- "high-toned bleach!" It did not burn my nose, but it was indeed high-toned and volatile. It seemed crisp on the attack, but fattened through the midsection -- honey and wax, with a warm finish. It was not nearly as sweet as I would have imagined...not especially appealing either. 

A busy day of being a Dad, a husband, a cook, a "no limit" player, and overall Bon Vivant cuts into one's note taking, but I did my best... 

1990 Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling -- Toledo rookie, Dave Nelson (right) greeted me with this to kick off my afternoon festivities...a nose of hops (beer reference), light tangerine, and a variety of weeds. I had a hard time deciding if it was very closed on the palate, or if it had already begun to fade (lacking intensity)...in either case, beyond a splash of apricot, it was shy with its flavors. 

2000 P Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre -- a nice big bunch of flowers, grapefruit, and white grape concentrate formed a pungent bouquet. This one was a mouth full -- heavy on body, it offers a medley of tangy citrus and apple against an herbal core, and a steely mineral finish. The wine shows as very young and still developing...impressive at this point for its size and clarity. 

2000 Prager Riesling Klaus -- the nose features understated peach and a big blast of musket fire. There is plenty of stone and plenty of peach, both brought to life by vibrant acidity. The finish tends to be hard and dry, but it was still unfolding. This is good wine for the acid tolerant. 

1999 Nigl Sauvignon Blanc -- gooseberry, grapefruit, apricot, light herbs, and chalk on the nose. Light peach flavors and more potent apricot turn a bit tangy with bright acids...grass and rocks...a big mineral crunch and clean lemon flavors at the close. It has a fine Sauv Blanc profile, but what sets this wine apart is its smooth, glassy texture and its long satisfying finish...it just feels great to sip. Very impressive. 

1990 JJ Prum Welehner Sonnenuhr Spatlese -- there is plenty of petrol and kerosene, but then later giving way to fragrant apricot, wild flowers and stone. The palate follows suit, but the apricot is deep and dense, while the minerals seem to float over the top. It has supple, soothing textures, and excellent balance. This is a wonderful wine that I could just sniff and sip all night long. 

1985 Foreau Vouvray Demi-Sec -- it has a whiskey barrel nose of some intensity...a hand full of rock and herbs mixed in, too. It is lightly "fruit sweet" with apple and peach riding pleasant, soft textures. It finishes a bit short, with uncomfortable warmth. 

1996 Huet Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec -- it has a tomato can/tinny sort of note...still with light honey and herbs. It has good fruit density, but seems reluctant to show much more while I was sampling. Perhaps it is resting? 

1991 Joly Coulee de Serrant -- this was mightily swampy, funky and herbal when I wandered by...pretty tough to drink for even a leaf and twig lover like me. 

1985 Leoville Barton -- I took no detailed note here, but this wine was quite appealing for me. It had nice length to its "bottle sweet" black fruit...cedar, mineral and earth. It was a pleasure to have in my glass. 

1985 Cos d'Estournel -- this was one of Mark Horvatich's bottles, and the only reason I mention it is that he and I had just a splendid '85 from his cellar just a year ago...this one seeming more hard, less giving and/or complete. Maybe others had a better experience with this bottle in a different interval...but for better or worse, wine is a moving target -- not that I'm complaining. 

After returning from the great outdoors, (where crack grill man) Jeff Gillikin and I braved the cold to turn out copious amounts of tasty pork tenderloin and chicken sausages for the purple tongued masses, it was such a delight to enjoy this Voge with my dinner. 

1991 Voge Cornas Vielles Fontaines -- Smilin' Billy Paumen decanted his last bottle of this fine Syrah for 3-4 hours before serving...it is hard to believe it could have been much better. It is still dark and dense...smooth as it rolls over the tongue, but still rustic and a little wild at the edges. It has the meat, the granite and the animal character, but all conveyed so seamlessly -- wow.  Top notch Cornas, and probably my favorite red from a very strong weekend...I know I'm not alone in this assessment. 

2000 Coudert Clos de la Roillette -- Blackie called it "fresh, fresh, fresh!". Indeed it was, and a fine palate "realingner" as well. A pretty nose of flowers and strawberries...the palate is bright with acids...clean and pure. Some people do not "get" good Beaujolais...the same can be said for that quickly vanishing plate of multi-colored, roasted beets...I feel sad for both groups. 

2000 Juge Cornas "Cuvee C" -- I've had a few very nice Juge wines with my Rhone loving pals, but this one that Mike Lawton (left) trotted out has been the best so far. It is a different take on the soil and grapes than that of Allemand, Voge, et al ...lighter, and more elegant, but still with the fresh sense, and rustic charms that the best producers showcase. This was quite delicious. 

2000 Chateau Pavie -- is that circus music I hear in the background? No wine evoked such intense opinions, and no matter what it tasted like, it was a treat for the mind and fodder for the discussion. Many thanks to Chris Shearer for throwing this pricey meat to we crouching tigers -- ever ready to pounce. In short, my comment was "it is pretty ugly, but not really as bad as I thought it would be." I'll stick with that. It is significantly oaked, faux creamy in texture, possessing some sort of stealth tannins, and overtly fruity -- no doubt, some/many will love it. If you took away the $200-300 price tag, the "hundred point" hype, and the bickering amongst critics, it would probably be one of many similar wines. It resembles more of a prestige Cal Cab than a Bordeaux to me, but I know that times they are a changin'...and perceptions of Old World models along with them. All that said, I was happy to try it. 

1995 Banfi Brunello -- perhaps I was still stunned by the Pavie, but this came across as "drinkable but formulaic" to me. I still have a bottle or two of this in the cellar, so I hope it shows better in other circumstances. 

1999 Brundlmayer Cecile Pinot Noir -- I do not recall having previously tried an Austrian Pinot, so I was looking forward to this experience. I was not let down... It had a very fresh, organic bouquet of ripe strawberry and cherry, flowers, and forest floor...in some ways reminding me of a top Beaujolais (which of course I mean as a compliment). Bing cherry, light herbs and clean dirt in the mouth...balanced acidity, and nice textures. It is interesting and appealing. 

1990 Jasmin Cote Rotie -- incredibly tannic, and somewhat dried out. It shows plenty of iron and rust in the finish..."tough" and "harsh" are the words that came to mind. Oh well... 

2001 Burgaud Cote Rotie -- somebody nearby quipped "a nose full of ass"...well said! Why should I drink this with plenty of other nice things to sample? Off I went... 

1974 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon -- I tasted this after hours of being open -- lots of cedar...lots of sediment. It is a dense wine, but it is not showing very much now, except for hard tannins. 

1995 Quintarelli Valpolicella -- cedar chips, herbs, black cherries and tar on the nose. It has more of the same in the mouth, and I find it appealing as it is dense, but light.  

1988 Chateau Climens -- a luscious orange and pineapple pleasure, both to smell and taste. The wine is very deep, and has a long lasting sweet, buttery finish. Pretty good balance, though I almost always find Sauternes lacking a little acid for my own sweet spot. Jeff Faunce listed this as a favorite, though I preferred the... 

1985 Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux -- just a bit of swampy funk, but then the nose is dominated by unripe pineapple (a bit prickly) and sweet orange flesh and zest. This wine is something of a zippy contrast to the smooth riding Sauterne...light, fresh and dynamic. The same similar orange and pineapple flavors have a keen edge about them...nice sense of crushed stone at the close. 

1985 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux -- this hardly seemed like a "sweetie", but was quite appealing if you looked at it more like Demi-sec. It is clean, fresh wine, with a sparkling demeanor. It is well braced by acids -- nice, even if a little out of place at this point. 

Our time together passed too quickly, but the resonance of this event is always long lasting...far more significant than any or all of the wines.

BACK TO THE TOP