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Tasting Notes and Storyline by Bastardo
ZINVOCATE AND THE
We got an invitation from Wine Spec board regular Zinvocate in late September to join him at a tasting of selected wines from the portfolio of importer Peter Weygandt, sponsored by the Greater Lansing Vintners Club. Being both familiar with, and fond of three of these wines, I accepted immediately, especially since the man himself would be at the event. (No less than Robert Parker has this to say about Mr. Weygandt: "The quality of Peter Weygandt’s wines, from a bevy of superb ‘Best Buys’ to his top of the line limited production Burgundies and Alsatians, merits an enthusiastic bravo." – Wine Advocate, Issue 103) Unfortunately, The Director wasn’t able to attend, but Bored Doughnut was, so we took a drive to Haslett, Michigan, where we’d enjoy dinner with Zinvocate, the Wine Syrahn, and their friends Terry and Linda Hagan, before moving on to the tasting. These are warm, generous people, and we were made to feel completely at home as soon as we arrived. 1994 Beringer Napa Chardonnay Private Reserve Zinvocate greeted us with a glass of the ’94 Beringer PR Chardonnay, Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year in 1996, and first tasted by the Gang in January, 1997 (Battle of the Chardonnays). Very much as I remembered it, this pale gold showed big toasty oak/tropical fruit/pear/maple syrup flavors and aromas, with an almost oily texture in the mouth. It’s intense and concentrated, but I wondered if it wasn’t missing a little something on the mid-palate. A few days before, ZV had opened a bottle of the Coffaro Estate Cuvee, and poured and sealed half in a 375 ml bottle. (Only 425 cases of this were made; it’s a blend of the "best grapes of the harvest." 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Zinfandel, 26% Carignane, 13% Petite Sirah, 13.7% alcohol, unfiltered, and unfined.) He gave us each a glass after the Beringer, and it was gorgeous! A ruby-dark garnet, it was also intense, with flavors and aromas of raspberry/mint/black cherry/cinnamon/clove/vanilla and a nice toasty quality. This is only the second time I’ve tasted one of Mr. Coffaro’s wares, but both times I’ve been wowed, and must make an effort to get more of these superb wines. While we were sipping this, ZV showed us four wines, asking which we’d like to taste. These included a ‘92 Ravenswood Pickberry, a ‘94 Ravenswood 20th Anniversary Zin (a blend of the vineyard designates), and a ‘94 Chateau Souverain Library Reserve Cabernet, but I drew a bead on the ’92 Ridge Lytton Estate Zin (42 barrels produced; 88% Zin, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Alicante, 14.7% alcohol) being quite familiar with its reputation. It’s an inky purple garnet with a surprisingly reticent nose that finally started to open after an hour. (It might better have been decanted for an hour before drinking, but the circumstances dictated otherwise, and who’s complaining?) The ‘deauxnut noted "plummy dark fruit," while I found dense, concentrated smoky/toasty/reduced black raspberry/tar. There are plenty of tannins here, and it’ll easily go another 5 years in the cellar. We sat down to a wonderful dinner of marinated steaks, garlic mashed potatoes, sautéed fresh mushrooms and onions, steamed baby carrots, and Caesar salad. B.D. poured us all a glass of the Pride Mountain Reserve Cab that has been getting so much attention lately, from both press and consumers. (Mr. Parker gave it a 98.) He’d given it more than an hour in a decanter before funneling it back into the bottle and bringing it along, so it was much mellower than it would have been had it been poured straight from the bottle. (Terry called it "satiny soft.") Yet another inky garnet, this is huge, deep, rich and bumptious, with big cassis/plum/black currant/chocolate and some aquarium on the nose. It worked well with dinner, but despite its charms, it needs a lot of time in the cellar. We just had time for a quick sip or two of dessert before
hurrying off to the main event, and the Wagner Ice Wine was
terrific. Medium gold, with rich, unctuous apricot/kiwi fruit flavors and aromas, this is
an absolutely lovely Riesling, my first from the Finger Lakes. Tastes like an area I have
to explore more.
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