ZAP 98
Notes from the Mosh Pit
by califusa, Left Coast Correspondent to the Gang of Pour
24 January 1998, San Francisco
Part II

Aldo and Robert Biale - two of the nicest gentlemen in the business

1996 Old Crane Ranch - Oh Yum! It has that intense, wonderfully sweet fruit that I've grown to love from this producer. The 96 is definitely a step up from the 95's.

1996 Monte Rosso - Deeper color than the Crane Ranch. Certainly more withdrawn and closed in the nose. Good intensity of fruit, with a brambly, mountain wine characteristic, but surprisingly well controlled - not the tannic monster we have come to expect from this property. Quite delicious.

1996 Aldo's - There is always a warm place on my palate for this wine. The 1996 is a throwback to the delicious wines of 93 and 94. Wonderful forward fruit, and a hint of spice - perhaps more firmly structured than the 93 & 94. As you probably know, there was no 95 Aldo's - the wine was blended with another wine from a different property, and released as "Two Vineyards", and was not nearly as impressive as previous offerings - but this 96 is a real treat!

John Buehler

John Buehler is BACK!!! And to quote him: "There is yet another shift in the Buehler Paradigm." The 94 and 95 mark the return of John Buehler to the ranks of premium Zinfandel producers.

1995 Buehler Estate - from the Buehler estate, high in the hills east of the Napa Valley - initial notes of dark stone fruits, with a hint of mountain briar and a good lash of spice and toasty oak. Firm acids and good structure - probably a wine that can be enjoyed tonight (with the right foods), or cellared for five years, or possibly more.

1996 Hendry Vineyards Napa Block 7. Suppliers of grapes for Rosenblum and others for a number of years - makes small lots of wine from their own grapes. The Block 7 shows rich Zinfandel fruit, more so red than black; with a delightful intensity, good structure, with a nice dollop of oak. Another 'drink now, or hold for a couple of years'.

Green and Red 1996 Chiles Mill Vineyard - Somewhat restrained fruit in the nose; a bit restrained on the palate as well. The wine does have appealing fruit, but lacks the intensity of the 95, and, I think, is not quite as good a wine.

Nils Venge

Saddleback 1996 - This is the first "Boy, oh boy!!" of the 96 wines I've tasted. Very dense color, oak toast and spicy nuances of cinnamon and clove. Wonderful intensity in the mouth; bright Zinberry fruit and more spice. Good structure. This is an absolute beauty!

And now for ... Mr. Ridge!!

Paul Draper

 
1996 Paso Robles - much, if not all, of this fruit comes from the well known Dusi Ranch, and in distinctive years, certain blocks are bottled separately for an ATP release. The nose is a bit shy, but shows the delightful sweetness of fruit that is fairly typical of this wine. Bright fruit, medium  weight Zinfandel without the structure of other bottlings - probably best consumed in the near term.

1996 York Creek - very rich aromas of red and black fruits out of the glass, and good intensity of fruit on the palate with the firm acids of similar York Creek wines that have gone on to age quite well. Good structure - I'd guess this one is a keeper!

1996 Pagani Ranch - right now, a bit more restrained in the nose than the typical 'in your face' style of most Pagani bottlings - and the fruit is also a bit restrained on the palate. I find this just a little bit concerning, because the fruit in these wines is typically very forward. It does have good structure, and it will be interesting to see how this wine develops in the bottle.

1996 Lytton Springs - very appealing nose of North Sonoma fruit. Lovely flavors on the palate, appealing even now, anticipate much improvement.

1996 Geyserville - Interesting shadows of vegetal aromas on the nose, which I find unusual for this wine, but on the palate, it shows the best balance of all the Ridge 96 barrel samples. Nice spectrum of fruit flavors that fan out across the palate, touch of oak - I really look forward to tasting this once it's in bottle.

1996 Lytton Estate - Wow! Another big boy! Wonderful intensity and mouthfeel. Definitely a keeper - we'll be revisiting this wine 5 and 10 years from now.

TASTING NOTES ON:

Robert Biale Vineyards:
  1996 Old Crane Ranch
  1996 Monte Rosso
  1996 Aldo's

1995 Buehler Estate

1996 Hendry Vineyards Napa Block 7

1996 Green and Red Chiles Mill Vineyard

1996 Saddleback Cellar

Ridge Vineyards:
  1996 Paso Robles
  1996 York Creek
  1996 Pagani Ranch
  1996 Lytton Springs
  1996 Geyserville
  1996 Lytton Estate