Storyline and photos by califusa,
Left Coast Correspondent

1999 Consorzio Cal-Italia Tasting

Aaron Bader



 

 

 

 

 

Dorothy Showket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Michelle
Aaron Bader of Phoenix Vineyards was next. These folks are located in the Southwest portion of the Napa Valley. It's a family run operation, and Aaron recently left a position in the hospitality division of Opus One to pursue his winemaking on a full-time basis. Interestingly, they also have some Pinotage planted that they use in blending, and hope to produce as a varietal.

1998 Pinot Grigio - very pale color - pleasant light sweet floral aromatics - very nice fruit flavors with good structure in the mid-palate - smooth finish - all in all, a very nice wine.

1997 Blood of Jupiter - Napa Valley Sangiovese - 15% Pinotage - bright medium color - very pretty sweet Sangiovese fruit in the nose - smooth entry with medium weight varietal fruit - shows good structure with a clean finish - an excellent effort from this bright young winemaker.


I was beckoned from across the hall, and received a very warm welcome from Dorothy and Kal Showket (left), here today premiering their first release from the Showket - Awni Vineyards. I had the pleasure of meeting and visiting these folks several months ago during another Bacchus junket, and found them to be most delightful people. Their Sangiovese (and Cabernet Sauvignon - release date 2001) is crafted by Heidi Peterson Barrett, who they met several years ago when their Cabernet Franc was being sold to Gustav Dalla Valle for his Maya. Their Sangiovese, up to the 1996 vintage, went into the Altamura, arguably one of the best California Sangios. This gives you a little background on these people, and suggests why this wine was so highly anticipated.

1997 Sangiovese - dense purple color - still a bit closed in the nose, but showing interesting spice and brooding dark fruit aromas - beautiful, distinctive purple and black stone fruits on the palate, with well integrated oak spice - very smooth across the palate. This wine has depth and substance, and it is coming together very nicely - it has evolved significantly since I last tasted it, and I believe it will continue to do so. It will not hit its stride for another year or so. It is a real beauty, and the winery still has some.

I stepped outside with Kal, and my good friend Margaret Smith (Executive Director Emeritus of ZAP), to enjoy the view of the Bay, and listened to Kal talk about the history of his estate. As we talked, the wine continued to open and evolve in the glass. The aromatics started coming up, and in the mouth, the wine took on more weight and texture, with added toasty complexities from the oak. This just confirmed my impression that this wine will continue to improve and develop, and that its best days are a couple of years away.

I was absolutely delighted to see Michelle, who now handles marketing and sales (and many other duties!) at Saddleback. This is the first time we have met in person, although I have heard many positive comments from folks who have visited Saddleback - and now, I can understand why. She is a very sweet lady.

1997 Venge Sangiovese - 12% Charbono - medium ruby color - pretty and sweet red cherry and plum aromas - in the mouth, the wine doesn't quite have the weight of the 96 (which was blended with Zinfandel), but may, I think, have a little better balance - some unresolved tannins from Nils' somewhat lavish use of oak are still evident, but there's good fruit flavors shining through there, and this may turn out to be, in some ways, a more harmonious and better balanced wine than the 96 (which I also like a great deal.)